The "Köningstiger", the most feared tank from the Second World War. Weighing a staggering 68,5 tonnes with armored plates of 180mm thick and a 88mm gun, it would domminate the battlefield of armored vehicles until the end of the war.
While shopping for items related to my BK-117 project, I came across this massive kit, a limited edition of the King Tiger with a Porsche turret. Some quick research revealed that only 800 were made of this kit and coming with both a clear and plastic version, I simply couldn't resist letting this one go. It will be the biggest model I have ever build, being 550mm long and almost 200mm wide (excluding the gun).
Kit by Trumpeter
This project started on 12 July 2015 and was finished on 10 April 2018
Photos of this project can be found here:
PhotoshootKibworth, UK, 2019
Way overdue, I finally present you the completed model, this time with a finished base for it, including name plaque. Have a look at the photoshoot series, and let me know what you think!
Thank you so much for sticking with me all the way to the finish. As always, on to the next one!
The Final PushKibworth, UK, 2018
Finally, after almost 3 years of work, I can call the King Tiger project complete. Despite all the delays and promises of regular updates, we’ve reached the finish line. And boy has it been a trip worth wile. And so, without further ado, I introduce to you the second last entry to this blog.
The next big step, which turned out to also be a very messy one, were the massive tracks for this monster. Measuring almost 90 cm (3 feet) in length, they had to be covered in mud before being able to add them to the model itself. For this I went into the garden and collected dirt, small twigs, leaves and some grass. All this was then mixed with PVA glue, water, and some pigments, before literally being dumped onto the tracks. I used a big brush to dab it on, making sure it would get into all the small openings and track links like it would do in real life. Once the first side was dry, a process I sped up using a hair dryer, the other side received the same treatment. After letting them dry for a good time, I wrapped them around the wheels, not realizing the glue made it a lot harder to bend them. As a result, some of the mud cracked and came off, which I re-added with some glue afterwards. The bits of the track that weren’t covered with mud received some weathering using metal paints to make the tracks look less plastic and more metal.
I focused my attention to the interior again and began work on the headsets. With only having 2 headsets for the model, I had to come up with an idea for the remaining 3 sets, which I wasn’t going to make from scratch. I figured that most of the crew members would nicely pack away their sets in the storage boxes when not in use (they’re German after all). All I had to do now was make the 2 sets that came with the Verlinden figures. Each headset consists of earphones and a neckband which functions as a microphone. Both were made from various PE and resin parts, which after a bit of fiddling went together nicely. The wiring was made from 0.2 mm lead wire, which allows for a beautiful natural sagging once placed in the tank. Everything was painted and added to the gunner and commander’s positions.
Now it was time to make the figures. Since both Verlinden sets were listed as “commander”, I bought a set containing various heads and swapped one of the two out with a different one wearing a wooly hat instead of a cap. I saw on photos of Tigers in colder climates that this was quite common. Since I didn’t really like the final look of the clothing on the commander, being all straight-cut, I used putty to add wool on the sleeves and jacket, creating a better-looking transition to the hands and trousers. I began the paining process with a good clean of the resin parts, before spraying a thin coat of Mr. Surfacer on them as a primer and blending it all nicely together. I then sprayed both with MRP white (MRP-004) because the was the major colour used and the most difficult one to provide a good solid coverage with. All the other colours were acrylics by Vallejo and applied with a brush. I tried to follow various guides I found online, as I have pretty much zero experience painting figures. Different tones of black (for the clothing) and skin (faces) were created by mixing and used to achieve a natural looking figure. The leather-looking pouches were done using oil paints, brushed on un-thinned allowing it to create the streaking effect. Although I think there’s still room for improvement (especially the eyes), I’m quite happy with how they turned out in the end.
At this point, the model and figures were pretty much ready and all I needed was a base to place them on. I got myself a piece of insulation material, left over from the garage conversion, which provides a great medium for this. It’s basically tightly packed Styrofoam, which is perfect for shaping with sanders and the likes to form a basic shape. After cutting the piece to the required size and shape, I covered it with a thin layer of plaster. While this was drying, I added track marks using left-over links from the tank and the footmarks using one of the figures. The tracks were airbrushed on using MRP (only colour I had laying around) while the darker mud effect was created using a combination of PVA glue with dark brown acrylic paint and pigments, hoping for a more wet look. The wet puddles were created using ‘Woodland Scenic Real Water Effects’, which was applied using a syringe. The snow was added last, again using ‘Woodland Scenic’ products, by covering the entire base with a mixture of PVA glue and water, before sprinkling on the snow through a fine sieve. I then sprayed on a thinner version of the glue/water mixture using a spray bottle.
It was now time to bring it all together. The tank was added and glued into place. In an attempt to show of the size of this beast, I ended up with one track sticking out of the diorama base, hanging freely in the air. I think this gives a great dramatic effect to it all. Unfortunately, the tank didn´t fit perfectly and some parts of the tracks were not touching the base. I corrected this error by applying PVA glue to fill the gaps and sprinkle snow onto it, creating the effect of a recent snow shower. This was followed by sprinkling snow all over the model, kept in place with a thin mixture of PVA/water which was brushed on in the desired places.
To complete the diorama, I made a signpost from scratch, using periodic photos to estimate the size. This was then made from balsa wood (pole) and styrene sheets (treaded with a rough sanding stick to give it a wood-like effect). Once glued together, I painted the whole thing with brown oil paint, again allowing the streaking effect to give it a more wood-like appearance. The lettering was done freehand using white acrylic paint and a small brush. Granted the lettering isn’t perfectly straight, I figured this would have been done by locals in real life anyway, being in a remote location. The distances were achieved using Google Maps, so I challenge you to figure out where exactly the diorama is based. Lastly, I added the figures to their spot in front of the tank and placed the few remaining bits around the tank to complete the look. The final touch was added by placing a map of the local area, made by scaling down an old map of the area to size, and placed into the hands of the crew members.
And there you have it, a completed Tiger Tank model. Although I was going to cover the sides of the diorama base with balsa wood initially, this didn’t work very well. Thanks to a good friend of mine who gave me a great idea, I covered the sides with brown paint instead. The idea behind this is that the whole thing has been “lifted” from the ground and placed in my display cabinet instead.
As I mentioned, this is the second-to-last blog entry for this model, as the last one will be done once I’ve received the engraved plate for it and the photos of the final model have been taken. So, until then, please enjoy the photos I’ve added to the gallery. As always, see you next time!
The end is in sightKibworth, UK, 2018
What better way to start the new year than with an update on the King Tiger project? It’s been almost 3 months since the last update and a lot has happened since. A brief overview:
- Tools, cables, and side skirts have been added
- Brass gun muzzle has been added
- Gun mount received a zimmerit coat
- AA gun mount was assembled
- Handles were added to the air filters
- Over 100 ml of paint was sprayed
- Painting of cut edges
- Adding of (small) details
In the previous blog update, I mentioned that the model was almost ready for paint. Before I could start spraying layer after layer, I needed to add various clasps, tools, and cables that are mounted to the side and top of the tank. The tools were cut from the sprue and cleaned up before being glued into place. The axe was added next to the radio-operator’s hatch, and the cable-cutter was mounted to the left engine cover. The cables consist of brass wire and plastic end-bits. These were glued together using CA glue, although I had to cut some strands to make the brass cable fit in the (too) small hole in the plastic bits. After some fiddling, it all fitted and they were mounted to the right-side of the tank. The only problem that I had when doing this resulted from adding the additional layer of zimmerit, thus leaving the gap between the hull and clasps too small to fit the cable. Instead, I glued the cable in place and filled the holes for the clasps, before gluing them on top of said gaps.
Next up was the headlight, which sits in the middle of the front of the tank. Again, the zimmerit coat turned out to be a small hindrance, but with a little modification and a good amount of glue, I was able to get it to sit correctly. The wire was cut to size and glued in place.
After the headlight, I started adding the side skirts. To make the model more interesting, I cut off parts of the skirts, as if they’d been damaged during battle and removed by the crew. A lot of the Tiger Tanks show this in photos, so why not add it to my model? The right side has the last 2 skirts missing, as well as the rear cover. The left side is missing the front half and part of the front cover. That way it breaks it up quite nicely, plus it works out with the opening of the hull I made on the left side (which is actually based on the skirt size and location).
Because I cut the left-side open, some items had to be cut in half, or completely left off in order to still show the interior. I opted to leave the towing cable off completely, and another tool was cut in half. The missing cable resulted in me having to made one of the clasps from PE (part of the upgrade set) as the original plastic version was moulded as part of the cleaning rods. Although it went together pretty easy, the top strip needed to be bend into shape to fit the cable and rods. This turned out to be more difficult than expected, and I eventually decided to fill up the PE part with putty and sand the required shape afterwards
One of the first upgrades I got for this kit was the brass gun muzzle from Aber. A stunningly beautiful piece of engineering. Getting it all together and making it fit to the end of my barrel was a small project in itself, as it consisted of almost 10 parts. I tried my new torch to solder bits together, but found this didn’t really work with the aluminium barrel, so although the muzzle itself is soldered, its attached to the barrel with CA glue. The result, breath-taking.
Early on I opted to add zimmerit to this model, but when I got the set I didn’t realize that it came with a newly moulded gun mount. Sadly, I’d already used the required kit parts in the original mount, so I was forced to create the zimmerit from scratch. I used parts of the sheet that were left over from the side (due to the cut-out of the hull) and the gaps were filled with putty. Using a cocktail stick I tried to create the iconic wavy lines. The curvature of the part didn’t make this an easy job at all, but overall, I’m happy with how it turned out and I think the difference in appearance adds a little to the battle damage as well.
Although not a very common item on the King Tiger towards the end of the war, I figured that the addition of an anti-air gun would give the viewer another area of interest. I bought the AA mount made by Shumo Kits, which is made out of white-metal. Another small model in itself, that required a bit of sanding and drilling to remove the casting blocks and open the mounting holes. The top-end, on which the gun-barrel sits, is still movable, allowing me to change the final position once the gun is in place. A strip of styrene was added to the clamp that mounts the whole thing onto the commander’s turret ring, as this was too big. Other than that, it required no modifications.
By now we’d arrived at the favourite stage of each modeller; Masking. Normally not a big issue, but because I’d cut away large parts of the hull and turret, I had to somehow come up with a way to prevent paint from leaking into the tank. I achieved this by sticking a piece of 10mm Tamiya masking tape onto the edge of the open areas, making sure half of it was still sticking out. I then used the 40mm tape to close the gap, sticking this to the 10mm strips of tape that stuck out. Think of it as the letter C, with the top and bottom end stuck to the cutting edge of the model. Make sense? I know, a complicated explanation, but hopefully the photos make it clear. The hatch openings were filled with foam blocks and further masking tape. The turret was done in the similar fashion, although the basket was covered using kitchen towel, stuck to the bottom with Tamiya tape.
From the massive list of “things to do”, I noticed that the handles on air filters hadn’t been done yet. Looking through my rather large stash of spare parts, I found some handles from the 1/32 Apache kit my brother once build when he was little. They worked absolutely perfect for my purpose and saved me a lot of time, as I would have had to make them from metal/copper wire bended to shape. The handles were glued into place, with 3 of them lying flat and one standing up. Again, a little variation adds to the interest of the viewer.
I know, you’re still waiting on the part where I tell you all about the gallons of paint this model required to look like the real thing. Well today is your lucky day, as here it is. I normally spray my models with Mr. Surfacer 1200 as a primer, but with a model this big, that would cost me too much in paint. Instead, I sprayed all non-plastic parts, including a thin layer on the resin sheets, to give the paint extra “bite” to the model. The base coat is ‘Dark Yellow, RAL7028’ (MRP-037), which covers the whole model. I ended up using almost 1.5 bottles (45ml) to get the job done. I followed with the camouflage colours, ‘Olive Green, RAL6003’ (MRP-035) and ‘Red Brown, RAL8017’ (MRP-036). These were sprayed in a pattern loosely based on photos of the actual model, and a bit of my own artistic license. Perhaps not entirely historically accurate, but I think it looks good and realistic. After all, my model is a non-existent tank, based loosely on “Anneliese” of the S.P.Abt. 503. The camouflage was applied with the turret in place, as this would be the case in real life, too, in order to end up with a matching pattern. It also makes it easier to leave the area underneath the turret unpainted. Next up where the wheels, which were painted in a similar fashion. Regarding camouflage, I sprayed half of them with green and the other half with the brown, making sure they’d appear in a random fashion as if they’ve been turning since having been painted. Lastly, I painted all the small parts that will be mounted once the painting stage has been completed. And there you have it, that’s the tank in her summer dress.
For those of you with very good eyes, you might notice that I forgot the place the tow cable on the left side before painting the camouflage, which would have resulted in the typical “yellow shadow” on the side. Let’s just assume the cable has been missing for a long time and camouflage has been redone since. Also, I ended up turning the commander’s hatch 180 degrees, resulting in the camouflage being the wrong way around. I didn’t realise this until it was glued in place, but I don’t think it’s too big a mistake to try and correct at this stage.
Time for some detailed work. My model has quite some damage to the zimmerit coating, and would reveal the hull red primer underneath. I painted all the areas in the correct colour, giving me a subtle difference between the brown camouflage colour. Some of them will stand out more later on once the winter camouflage has been applied, as some of the coat will have been damaged after this was applied.
It is also at this stage that I finally got to name my tank. A small background story; As I mentioned before, my model is loosely based on “Anneliese”. After watching the movie “Fury”, I tried to find something similar by combining the names. I came up with the name “Für Elise”, naming her after the famous piano piece written by Ludwig von Beethoven, one of my favourite piano plays and composers. Using a thin brush and black paint, I wrote the name on the barrel free-hand, followed by the numbers “324” on the side and rear-hatch (combination of my lucky numbers 3 & 24).
Areas of heavy wear and tear caused by the crew climbing onto the tank and things scraping along the skirts (such as trees) were recreated by using the “Red Hull Primer” colour and dry-brushing metallic paint onto hooks, edges, and flat spots.
This stage was completed by adding the wheels, trying to match them with the main camouflage and also fit them evenly on both sides. I strongly believe the wheels would have been painted separately if camouflage was newly applied or touched-up in the field, so a perfect match would never be the case.
I’ve always wanted to do a winter camouflage, but do it in such a way that it wouldn’t ruin all the work that I’d put in so far. After seeing many photos of tanks during the war operating in snowy conditions, I noticed that a lot of their winter camos had washed off. This was mainly the result of the wash being a water-based paint, therefore not lasting very long in the field. I did a trial with using white paint and the white clay wash by Flory Models. Eventually, I decided to use a combination of the two, applying the main coat using actual paint and finer details and weathering using the wash.
The white paint (MRP-004) was sprayed on very thinly and in a random pattern, in an attempt to start the weathering and fading of the winter camouflage. Before coming in with the clay wash, I used the previously mentioned camouflage colours to touch-up various areas that I thought were done too strongly. The clay wash was applied using the airbrush, again heavier in areas where it would most likely stick better than on the flat surfaces, such as the skirts. Multiple layers were applied, slowly building it up.
The combination of the two types of paint allowed me better control of the weathering process. Since the paint was lacquer based, it would only come off using sanders. The clay wash could easily be removed with a damp brush or paper towel. Using both techniques, I gave it a more heavily worn look to the flat surfaces, while the zimmerit was almost left completely alone, since the elements would have had a harder time trying to remove it from all the ridges in the coat. Areas where crew would climb on to get inside received strong weathering as well. Areas where the red primer was showing through were enhanced where necessary and sometimes even brought back all together, as if the damage was done after the winter camouflage had been applied. I finished this stage by covering the whole model in a layer or matt varnish, MRP-127 to seal it all in.
Up to this point I’d left the metal wheels alone, as I didn’t have the correct primer. I bought myself a can of Mr. Metal Primer and sprayed the wheels before coming in with the Dark Yellow and camouflage colours. Lastly, I applied the white camouflage using the lacquer paint. Most of this will be hidden by mud and snow in the final model anyway, so I wasn’t too fussed about getting the patters and weathering correct.
It was now time for the dirty job, the application of mud. As I’d never done this before, I spend the next few hours on the web, watching various videos and reading articles about how to create a realistic mud effect. In the end, I chose to go with the combination of dirt from the garden, mixed with water and hobby glue. I kept thinning the mix with water until it was almost like a milkshake consistency. Using a large brush, I applied the mixture in a dabbing motion onto the model. This technique allowed for easy control, as well as varying the thickness of it in certain areas as I went along. I completed this process by flicking mud onto the model to create spatters. This was done by striking the brush along a wooden stick, thus flicking the mud off the brush with each pass of the bristles on the stick. I’ll have to repeat the last technique again to the back end, as I forgot to put the exhaust guards in place. They stand out quite a bit at the moment without any mud on them.
Now I could finally remove the masking tape and see how much of the paint had managed to get inside the model. Surprisingly little, it turned out. To be honest, I’m quite proud of my masking skills on this one, I expected a lot more clean-up to be required. With the masking tape removed, I could finally paint the edges, which were still showing in bare plastic. I wanted a colour that wasn’t too bright and “in-your-face”, but it also needed to show the viewer that something was missing here. I ended up going for the red hull primer, as this would bring everything nicely together. Using a brush, I hand-painted all the edges, striking the brush from the inside towards the outside. This way, any brush strokes would look like torch cut marks, or at least that’s the idea. A single coat covered most of the edges the first time, although I think I might have to do a few areas again, just to give it a slightly more solid look.
A few details were still left to be done. I figured the muzzle would have quite a bit of black residue on it from all the expelling smoke and gasses when a round is fired. Using black pigment, I added this residue, trying to work in a logic pattern that the expelling gasses would create. The inside of the muzzle was painted black.
Pull cables attached to the hatches on the turret were added, of which the handles were made of brass rod bend to shape. The air filters were painted, covered in a grime wash and weathered to match that of the engine bay. These will later be added in the diorama. The exhausts were given a base colour using the red camouflage paint. I will use pigments and rust colours next time to create a rusty effect to them.
And that brings us to the end of this update, only a few steps away from completion. I hope you enjoyed it so far. Next time I’ll be finishing the weathering using oils, and I’ll be working on the tracks and figures, before starting on the diorama base. So, stay tuned and please let me know what you think. See you next time!
A major milestoneKibworth, UK, 2017
Finally, after more than 2 years building this model, I’ve finished the interior and closed up the hull and turret. But let’s go back somewhat to the part where I get all the subassemblies ready.
It all began with the tedious and somewhat boring task of sanding all the ammo shells. It took me around 2 hours to get all 40 of them looking smooth. While reading up on the rounds used in the King Tiger, I found out that towards the end of the war, the brass shells were going out of fashion (more likely because of brass becoming a scarce material) and treated steel was used instead. But figuring they would have had at least a few old ones laying around, I went with a combination of the 2 for my load-out. To paint the shell casings, I used Mr. Metal Color brass & iron, which were then buffed to give a metallic look. The scratches were actually created (more by accident) during the handling and placing them in the racks. As they turned out very realistic, I left them this way. The actual shell was painted using acrylics, simply because I used a brush for all of it instead of the airbrush. The colours used were black and olive drab by LifeColor. The white tip was created by dipping them in the lid of the bottle with some paint in it.
After the paint had sufficient time to dry, I added various decals. For whatever reason, Trumpeter only provides decals for half of the shells, which normally wouldn’t be a problem as the hull is closed up. But with me opening it all to the viewer, I had to position them in such a way that all the front shells, visible to you, had a decal on them. The bottom was glued on last, with a quick flick of the paintbrush to match the shell’s colour.
Now came the time to place all of the shells in the racks. Unfortunately, the resin parts were slightly warped, so the shells went in a bit difficult at times as they had to bend the resin to shape. Some were so bad I had to leave shells out in order to make them fit in the hull. Eventually, after a lot of fiddling around, the racks were loaded and fitted to their respective places in the tank.
Carrying ammo for the big gun is one thing, but the crew also had to take rounds for their MGs with them. The bags were hung up anywhere they could, although most of them hung on specialised rails on the hull roof and turret ring. Bags were added to the side of the loader’s seat as well. It’s getting very crowded inside and I can hardly imagine what it would’ve be like to live in these machines for months on end.
With the above in mind, I’m convinced the crew would have personal items with them, with the minimal being photos of their families back home. I went onto the web and found myself some photos of German crews and soldiers with their families. These were scaled down to the correct size and then printed. I then glued them in place at each of the crew stations. Trying to make it more realistic, I placed them behind wiring, instruments or parts of the tank, as if they were stuck there by the crew.
Now came the moment of truth, merging the hull roof with the lower hull structure. I already knew this wasn’t going to be a perfect fit, nowhere near to be honest. This is mostly because the bottom half was sagging a little, and the top half was missing some of the side as I sanded off too much to make the added armour fit. Another problem, even before gluing the roof in place, was the positioning of the radio assembly. With the support structures in place, I couldn’t glue it to the roof, as it won’t slide into position. The solution was sliding the roof halfway down, then wiggle the radio set around the fan assembly and in between the support strut and gearbox, before sliding the roof into its final position. All this had to happen relatively quickly, as otherwise the glue would dry before things got to where they’re supposed to go. In the end, it all worked out quite well and the whole assembly slotted in place nicely. Clamps were attached to keep it there until the glue hardened.
I hear you thinking, what about to gaps due to the sagging? Yes, that was the next step. The left side, the one which is opened, was filled with putty, whereas the right side was filled with your standard hobby glue. The only bit that was filled with putty on that side was the rear end, since I’ll be removing part of the track covers, the rest will all be hidden. Lastly the putty was sanded down to the correct shape, which completed the whole process.
The turret had already been fitted with all the zimmerit sheets, but the lower half hadn’t. To fit the hull, I had to slightly modify them, as the openings didn’t line up perfectly. More work was required for the left side with the large opening, but this didn’t cause any problems in the end. Before gluing them in place with CA glue, I cut parts of them to add damage to the coat. This was then further trimmed once in place to create a more realistic effect.
Back to the upper office, as there was still work to be done here before I could close her up. I started by adding the shells. In the Porsche version, they were held in place with straps. I tried to recreate this by flattening lead-wire which was then bent to shape and glued in place. I am aware that the actual buckles are missing, but I wasn’t able to recreate these very accurately, so I opted to leave them out altogether.
The crew working in this part of the tank also received photos of their family, which were placed in, hopefully, logical and realistic places. Shame some of them will be very difficult to see once it’s all finished, but then again it provides the viewer with new details each time they look. And that’s what I’m going for in my builds.
Although the tank is equipped with a massive gun, I’m convinced the crew would be carrying personal protection as well. I bought the weapon and accessories set by Dragon and selected the items that I wanted to add. These were painted and glued in place. The set consisted of an MP-40, ammo bags, some hand grenades, a sleeping bag, and a small rucksack of sorts. I think all these small items bring more life to the model and make it more realistic.
The commander’s hatch finally received the last parts that had been missing for all this time. These were the periscopes and accompanying mounting brackets. They were all painted in MRP’s NATO black. The photos were added afterwards to complete the turret interior.
There was this one little thing I completely forgot about. At first, I thought this could be done before fitting the unit, but due to me changing the procedure of fitting it to the tank, it was no longer possible. You guessed it right, I’m talking about wiring up the radios. The only way I could access them at this point, was through the little hatch which allows the radio-operator access to the tank. A massive pain to get this done, if at all possible. After a lot of head scratching, I decided that most of it won’t be visible in the end anyway, especially with the way the tank will be positioned in the final diorama. Instead, I added all the wiring to the driver’s side, which are clearly visible. These then ran underneath the radios and disappeared hanging over the gearbox underneath. Multiple lead-wires were twisted together to form the power cables coming from the communication box that run to the right side and disappear in the box behind the radio-operator’s seat. In order to do all this, I had to remove the oil tank, which was later glued back in place.
Up to this point I wasn’t sure whether adding the missing floor-plate was going to make a huge difference, but when dry-fitting the turret and the basket, I noticed this was the case. The gap was measured and cut from plastic seat with the diamond-shaped pattern on it. The curve was created by simply placing it underneath the basket and trace the curvature of it. It was then painted and weathered to match the rest of the floor. A small job but a big presence in the model.
The moment had arrived, where the turret was finally merged with the hull. Although this will remain a loose fit, I wanted to see what it would look like once completed. I added all the wheels to the already massive kit and wrapped the tracks around them. The barrel was fitted and the engine covers followed next. This is, by far, going to be the biggest model I’ve ever done to date, and it looks mighty impressive already! Not to mention the weight, this thing is heavy!
I know I promised a new time-lapse video in my last update, but I’ve been having issues with the camera, causing it to stop midway recordings. I haven’t been able to fix the problem yet, and I’m considering getting a new camera for this. So far, I’ve lost at least 20 hours of work, so I need to have a good think about how to continue with this project for the Tiger Tank. I might call it quits and try again with the next build. What do you think I should do?
Once again, many thanks for sticking with me during this build and all your comments! They really keep me going when things get less exiting. But the end is slowly coming in sight, and I’m really motivated for the final push to get her ready for some paint! Sadly, I’m away for the next 7 weeks for work, but lots more will be done in December. See you then!
Finally... AssemblyKibworth, UK, 2017
Damn, it’s a good thing I wasn’t in charge of construction during the war, nothing would get done… Despite being back full-time working on the King Tiger, something has changed in my personal life which has taken priority. Planning a wedding. But despite that, I’m still making progress and I’ve got another big update to tell you all about it. As mentioned in the previous update, most of the parts were ready for paint by now, all I had to put together were a few small items and the remaining ammo-racks.
Like with the first racks I build, the resin parts for the rest of them were also warped. By using a few shells, I was able to “force” the parts into shape before gluing them onto the styrene strips. The bolts were then punched from styrene and added in the correct places. In order to make them fit flush with the lower hull, I had to sand some of the weld details, but they won’t be seen anymore once the racks are in position.
Now that all 6 ammo-racks were ready, it was time to bring out the airbrush and start priming it all. It took my almost an hour to get it done, there was so much of it. Sadly, the camera stopped halfway through (without me realising) so there’s a bit missing in the time-lapse (about 4 hrs of it in total). As per usual, I used Mr. Surfacer as my primer. Being a lacquer-based paint, it dried very quickly and by the time the last part was done, I could start with the actual paint on the first. To my surprise Mr. Paint doesn’t have an “ivory” colour, so I had to mix this by combining white (MRP-004) with RAF marking yellow (MRP-122). It looked very promising when mixed in the bottle, but after spraying all the parts (which took me another 2 hours), I discovered that the colour was too white compared to the paint used on the lower hull. This left me with two options, either I remix the paint and start again, or I spray a coat of the paint I used before. I opted for the latter, and out came the trusty Humbrol glossy Ivory enamel paint. The downside to using this paint is the long drying time, as well as the glossy look it results in. But it was the easiest way of achieving the correct colour, so off I went. Once all parts were sprayed (yet again), a thin coat of matt varnish went on and the parts were left to dry for about 48 hours. If I did it correctly, all the items that are to be painted in the ivory colour are now done, aside from the lower-hull roof, which at this point I had completely forgotten about.
It wasn’t until I had cleaned my airbrush and packed everything away that I noticed the roof without any colour. After the typical “Ah for **** sake”, the paint was brought out and sprayed on. After the first 12 hours of drying, I masked the white and sprayed the lower half in the hull red colour, also enamel (but this time by Revell).
I reverted my attention to the smaller parts, which weren’t painted white. These included the radio’s, MG’s, and fire extinguishers. They were painted with MRP in either NATO black or RAF marking red (only red I had laying around).
Everything was left to dry for the next day or two before I hand-brushed all the details using acrylic paints (good thing I kept all of them after changing to MRP).
By now I’d spend to best part of 5 hrs to get it all painted and ready for weathering. The first step consisted of dry-brushing parts of the gun and turret with silvers, greys, and hull red to reproduce scratches and general paint wear. Special attention was given to the gun, with heavy wear on the handles and handholds, as well as the framework that “catches” the empty shells when they’re expelled from the gun after firing. I think the photos explain it a lot better than my words, so be sure to have a look in the photo gallery. The next step was the application of the usual Flory wash “dark dirt”, which was brushed on. The black parts received the grey wash instead to give it more contrast. Once dry, I used cotton-buds and paper towels to clean it off.
Although happy at the time, I think I’ll have to go back and touch up a few parts as the wash is too heavy with everything put together. More on that next time.
An estimated 40 parts were laying around on my desk and screamed to finally be put together. But first I stared at it for almost half an hour, going over all the different ways of assembling the gun and turret. Eventually I ended up by putting the hull roof in place, the turret floor in the correct position and the turret basket slowly being lowered into position. Somehow it didn’t line up, the basket floor didn’t fit in the circular gap down in the lower hull. In order to make it work, I brought out the sanders and reshaped the floor. It only required a small adjustment, so the slight misalignment can’t be seen in the final model. The turret basket was glued onto the turret floor once I was happy and clamps held it in place until dry. I wasn’t able to get the side support to sit in the correct position, so I had to modify the side cover a bit to make it all work. This was achieved by simply cutting out the opening (see photos). Next up was the actual gun. I assembled the MG that sits on the right side of it, and glued it into position. The gun was then dry-fitted into place and the turret cover was put on in order to align the openings with the gun and MG. A fiddly job which required a little persuasion to make it all work, but eventually slotted into place. Additional glue was applied to make sure it wouldn’t move once the upper hull was removed.
Since the barrel is made of solid aluminium and very heavy, I had to make sure the attachments for the gun were solid enough to support it all. This was achieved by large amounts of Tamiya glues, thus “welding” it all together into one solid lump of plastic. Extra strength was added using super glue on top of that. With the extra weight inside the gun itself, it should be balanced out nicely and prevent the whole turret from tipping over. The barrel was added and the whole assembly left to harden-out for roughly 24 hours.
In the meantime, I added the MG and periscope to the hull roof and glued the fire extinguisher in place. Decals were added to the radio-rack and gun as well.Wiring from the gun and turret were bend to shape and glued into position on the side of the turret basket. The commander’s seat and back support were added, and the MG ammo attached to the gun itself, thereby completing the work on the turret for now.
A few details will be added in the near future, including some personal items from the crew, as well as weapons and ammo shells.
And that brings us to the actual ammo shells, which will form the last bit of this update. As expected, sanding these is a laborious and boring task, so for now I only did the shells that go in the turret. The lower hull ones will be done next time.
Before I left for work again, I was able to paint the first 10 shells in brass. When I get back I hope to finish these and the remaining shells, making the racks ready for assembly into the lower hull. This then allows me to glue the roof in place and complete the bottom section of this massive model. More on that next time.
For now, this is it. Thank you all for being patient and following this build. By now I’ve reached another 30 hours, so expect part 4 of the time-lapse series with the next update as well. See you then!
For the war effortSumburgh, UK, 2017
With the Spitfire finally finished, I’m back full time working on the King Tiger. And the progress has been huge, so much that a lot of the parts are ready for painting when I come back from work in 2 weeks. But we’ll get to that later in the update, let’s start with a quick overview of what’s new since April:
The project has been waiting on the shelves for quite some time, over half a year now. So, when I finally got back to it, I started with the hatches, as these were the first things in my hands. I recently bought myself the ABER upgrade set, which includes details for the rear hatch and a few other bits that go on the turret. I don’t think I’ll be using all of it, but taking the useful bits off it and combine them with the kit parts to achieve the best result. As you might recall from previous updates, I added a chain to the loading hatch (rear of the turret) but it looked so awful that I removed it again. Instead I bought a cheap necklace at a local shop and used the chain, which had the perfect size. The next problem was where to attach the other end to, as there’s nothing moulded on the kit parts. The Aber set provides something for this, but it comes in 6 separate bits and is very fiddly. Good thing I got my new tool, which is a Dremel torch and liquid soldering paste. But dumb me discovered that the torch came without gas (hint, always read the small print) and made it useless for the time being. So, I opted to use a standard lighter to heat up the paste to solder it all together. It took multiple attempts to get it done, but eventually I managed to put all the bits together and got it looking somewhat like the real thing. It was then glued to the hatch and the chain attached to it. This pretty much now completes the hatch, and the only thing left is the cord to pull it back up, but that will be added once it’s glued into position onto the turret. The gunner’s hatch was already put together but still needed the piston to be added on the inside of the turret, which keeps the hatch in the open position.
Over time it seemed the glue hadn’t really done its job and the zimmerit sheets I’d previously glued on started to come off. Determined to make sure this wouldn’t happen again, I put everything back on with CA glue this time, using generous amounts all around. This seems to have done the job a lot better, and there’s no way it’ll be coming off again. The sheets were added all over the turret and gaps were subsequently filled with perfect plastic putty. I must admit, this stuff is a lot easier to use than the normal putty I use, mainly because of the thin tip, which allows for precision application. The only downside of using pre-shaped zimmerit sheets is that it’s all perfectly shaped. But let’s be honest, we’re building a tank here, one that was well used during the later stages of the war, so of course there should be damage to the coat. So, out came the hobby knife and I started chopping and cutting my way around, trying to achieve a realistic look while keeping the overall appearance in the back of my head. Not an easy task, as this model is so big it’s easy to get carried away. I still want to go back and do a bit of final detailing using the Dremel, but that will have to wait until I’m back. With all the above done, I glued the external details in place. These included the hooks for spare tracks, aiming sights and the gunner’s hatch.
With the outside of the turret now mostly completed, I focused my attention to the inside. A lot of the parts had been put in previously, but there was still plenty left to do. I began by adding the remaining kit parts, which included the piston for the gunner’s hatch, the binocular stand and the wheel to open/close the commander’s hatch. I then punched some nuts from a plastic sheet and added these to the parts that needed it. With all the plastic bits in place, I began looking at photos and tried to find a way to add all the wiring and where it had to go. Now the problem is that I’m building the Porsche version, of which there aren’t many photos. The amazing build by David Parker provides a lot of guidance, but in this section, it’s not very helpful to me. Instead I tried to apply logics and routed the wires around the edges as much as possible. I’m sure I’ve missed a few, but I think the overall appearance is quite convincing. For the gunner to get out of the tank, he would have to pull himself up through the hatch. Unfortunately, the grab handles are missing from the kit and I had to make these from some wiring, which was glued in place and detailed with welds afterwards. Another thing that’s different between the Porsche and Henschel are the ammo rack in the turret. David spends a lot of time having to correct the kit parts for his build, but having had a long hard look at the few photos of the Porsche interior, it appears to me that Trumpeter got it right and provided the kit with the correct looking shelves. So, with a big smile on my face, I put them all together and glued them into place inside the turret. It’s starting to get very crowded in here and that’s even without the ammo shells in there… Before I left this bit of the tank to rest, I added more wiring to the base of the turret, which will be connected to the basked once attached. These were made of brass- and lead wire, all varying in thickness. Connectors and locking hooks were made using putty. Finally, was the addition of a few boxes to the side of the turret, which held equipment for the MG gun and the gunner’s headset when not in use.
Let’s be honest, a tank was designed to shoot things and how is it going to achieve this without any ammo? Exactly, time to polish up some of those massive rounds and get them ready for paint. When the model will be finished, I plan to have it loaded with roughly 40 shells. That’s a lot of sanding as each one of them is attached to the sprue by 4 tabs, let alone the massive seem line that runs along the full length on both sides. To avoid getting fed up with this tedious job, I’ve decided to do them in small batches. Only problem is that the turret will be receiving about 15 of them, so it still took me a good hour or so to get them done. Once they were sanded smooth, I glued the PE to the bottom of each one. Once painted they’ll receive the decals and weathering before being placed in the racks.
One of the things that took a lot of my patience last time I worked on the model was the MG gun, which is fitted in the front of the hull. It’s not a great part straight from the kit and requires quite a lot of work to make it look realistic. I previously replaced the barrel with a brass turned version, which really looks the part. But there’s a lot more to do, especially on the framework that holds the ammo bags. None of this is included in the kit and must be made from scratch. Using styrene sheet, I constructed the rail and added the ammo bags. I then made the sides from plastic card as well, for the spent rounds to be collected in an empty pouch. A lot of work which took a long time and patience, but overall, I’m pleased with the result. It might not be a 100% exact, but I challenge you to show me where I’ve gone wrong. The remaining bits were added to the whole lot and the mini-model is now ready for paint. I suggest you have a look at the photos, as it’s difficult to describe all the work done to it.
I had a strong need to work on something simple and big after the above, and shifted to the back of the tank. The zimmerit was added to the back plate and subsequent damage was applied to the sheet. A few small items were added before I began working on the big parts, namely the exhaust stack and armour blocks. The covers in the kit are supplied as a thing plastic shape, but in real life they were cast from a solid piece of steel. To achieve the correct look, I filled the inside with modelling clay and shaped it to fit the exhaust stack. After hardening for 24 hours I applied a coat of Mr. Surfacer to the outside using a brush in a dabbing motion. As the paint dries, which goes quickly as it’s a lacquer-based product, you get a nice looking cast-iron effect, much like the real thing. The same technique was applied to the exhaust, be it in a slightly subtler way to represent heat and rust effects later when we get to the painting stage.
Eventually you run out of big parts and will have to move back to the smaller stuff. Although the gun is still a massive item in this model, it comprises of many smaller components, of which a lot needed some additional detailing. I began with the easy job by adding wiring to the gun. Using thick lead wire, I recreated the compressed air line, which is missing from the kit. This will later be connected to the basked, along with all the other wires from the turret. The next item on the list that really needed some work was the MG gun. Just as the one down in the front of the tank, this one received a new brass barrel from Aber. Luckily a lot of the kit parts were useable and looked a lot like the real thing. Once it was all put together, I removed the buttstock of the gun and replaced it with a styrene rod, as these would have been taken off to fit inside the tank. I shifted my attention to the other side of the gun, where you can find the range-finder used by the commander. I replaced the whole thing with a resin version created by David Parker (AFV) and adjusted various parts to fit the Porsche turret, as all his items are designed for the slightly larger Henschel turret. I achieved this by simply cutting off a corner of the supporting plate, which will hardly be visible in the end anyway. Once painted I’ll glue all the smaller subassemblies in place, but I’ve dry-fitted all of them to make sure it all aligns.
Back down to the lower section of the tank, where the hull roof required some additional work. I added the details to the ring around the turret basked, which would have been bolted to the hull roof. It is difficult to see how many the Porsche variant had, but I’ve gone with a logic layout, evenly spacing them out around the ring. I think it looks very good and with the basked mounted it’ll be a tough job to see them. Wiring was added as well along the edge of the roof. This runs from the radio set all the way down to the antenna, located at the back of the tank. I had to come up with an idea for the vent, which is located in the front between the driver and radio-operator hatches, as it was cut in half. In the end, I opted to close the piece with some plastic sheet, as if it was cut in half, too. It looks a bit odd maybe, but once the paint is on it’ll make more sense. The front of the vent was enhanced with a PE roster, taken from the U-Boat project.
And so, we arrive at the most dreaded part of this update, the ammo racks. Sadly, most of the racks proved by AFV in resin have warped. So, they require quite a bit of work to make them fit. For this I’m using a few shells to force the resin into the correct position before gluing plastic strips to the bottom and rear of them, as they would have had in real life. Bolts are added to enhance the detail and kit parts are used for the middle support strut, as these are the same. Something that takes a lot of time but doesn’t have a lot to show for it. So far, I’ve only managed to do the front ones and the left rear, with still 3 more to be done. But like the shells, I’ll do them in between other jobs to keep myself motivated.
This must have easily been my biggest update in a while, but we have finally reached the end. If you’re still reading, I’m impressed, you must really be interested in this project. Thank you. With all the above, we’ve almost reached another time-lapse update, just 2 more hours to go. Next time we’ll be working on the remaining ammo racks and hopefully start to apply some paint to the beast. The lower hull will be enhanced with zimmerit and with a bit of luck we’ll be able to start merging the turret with the lower hull. Exiting times ahead!
A real update?!Sumburgh, UK, 2017
Before I start writing to you about the latest on this build, I owe you a big apology for the enormous gap in updates. As you may know, I have moved house a few months ago and had to rebuild my modelling cave from scratch. This resulted in preventing me from doing any work on my models and caused a big delay in the overall progress. However, the new cave is finally complete and I am ready to get back to work on the King Tiger. For those interested in my new (and old) model cave, have a look at the special page I’ve created for it. It has photos of all my model caves, starting in the USA all the way up to the latest one in the new house.
So, with the formalities now out of the way, let’s get started with this update and get you back in the loop on what’s going on with the King Tiger. Currently the build is a little all over the place, with me working on various items throughout the kit. Work has been done in the front, the hull and upper turret. Let’s start with the front MG gun and radio system.
The kit guns are decently moulded, but the barrel could do with an upgrade. So I’ve invested in a few brass turned barrels to replace all three of them. Because this particular one is located in the front, I had to remove the butt-stock and replaced it with a styrene rod, to which the stock would be attached if in use. I then assembled the system in which the gun is mounted, but forgot to take photos of it. They’ll be online with the next update, as I still have a little detailing work to do on them.
I moved on and gathered the courage to start the new PE radio rack by David Parker over at AFV. The set is absolutely superb, but my poor skills in handling PE haven’t done it any justice. I recently ordered soldering paste and a blowtorch, so I might have to try this PE thing again once it gets here. But for now it’ll have to be put together using CA glue and styrene. I elected to make a hybrid out of the new parts and a few of the old kit parts, in an attempt to reduce the workload slightly. Don’t think it turned out that way, but overall I’m quite pleased with the result for the time being. Once I get to super detail it with wiring and such, I might have to redo a few bits to make it look the way I want it.
Having spent quite a bit of time on the front office, I moved my attention to the rear of the tank and did some work on the engine hatch and covers. I added the PE mesh to the armoured covers, leaving one of them off which I might bend to add a little damage to it or decide to leave it off completely. I’m not entirely sure yet. The engine hatch itself required a lot of work in order to look something like the real thing. I began by filling the ejector pins with putty and sanded it all smooth. I then placed styrene rods on the inside, which will lift the covers a little, allowing air to pass underneath. A styrene sheet was glued on top before adding the dome-shaped covers on top, representing the thickness of the armoured covers. On the inside I added a ring of styrene, which is basically the bottom of the assembly and is also the part that was welded onto the hatch to hold the entire assembly in place. The photo I’ve uploaded doesn’t show the welding details yet, but will be visible in future uploads.
The gap on the inside of the hull surrounding the turret ring was covered by cutting out a ring from styrene sheet and glued in place. I still have to add details to this ring, but just the frustrations of making it in the first place made me push this job a little further down the line.
With most of the interior now coming together, I moved back to the front and added a few kit and resin parts to the radio rack. A few panels were made from scratch using styrene and spare parts as they were missing from both the kit and the aftermarket set by David Parker. I still have to add all the wiring, but I’ll do this once I’m sure it fits and I’ve painted the whole assembly.
I decided that it was time to tackle a very laborious and boring job, namely the ammo shells. There’s quite a few of them fitted to this machine, and although I won’t be adding all of them, there’s still plenty left to do. I began by cutting the useful bits of the resin upgrade set, as they’d warped pretty badly during production (also an aftermarket upgrade by David). Using a combination of resin and kit parts, it put the ammo racks together. I then added thin strips of styrene that were present in the real machine as well to space them correctly, using a few shells to measure it all out. Most of them were straight forward, although two needed some modification, as they would otherwise block the view of the interior. I cut them in strategic places allowing viewers to still look inside once the model is complete.
The same problem existed with the support struts for the upper hull, which span the full width of the tank. Initially I had envisioned a wavy pattern to make it more playful, but in the end went for a more straight approach as I felt it suited the model better. Again styrene strips were used to add welding blocks to the struts, which will receive welding details once painted and fitted to the machine.
And that’s pretty much were we are now. A lot left to do, but the list is definitely getting smaller. With all the work going in, we’re not too far off another time-lapse either, only a couple hours of building needed. Hopefully I’ll have another update soon, especially now that the Spitfire is nearly complete and I can focus on this build again before starting a new one. So until then, please enjoy the new photos and let me know what you think.
Many parts become oneSumburgh, UK, 2016
Updates on a regular basis…. Yeah right.
I did manage to get a lot of work done actually, but there’s not much to show for it. Why’s that you might think? Well, it’s because I put together roughly 50-60 small parts to form one bigger part. Most of the work went into weathering all these parts and getting them ready for assembly. Once dry I glued them into place, which eventually led to a completed turret basket. I think the best option would be to have the photos speak for themselves, which can be found in the gallery as usual.
A bit of work was done on the turret itself, with various items glued to the roof and another sheet of zimmerit being added to the outside. I also glued the hatch that sits above the driver and radio-operator which allows maintenance crews to remove the gearbox. It’s been cut in half to match the opening I’ve created in the hull. Resin parts were added to the actual exit hatch for the right side and will be added later. It still needs a bit of work to fit perfectly, but this will come once the upper hull is in place.
Focus than switched to the rear section. I’ve sprayed the radiators and finished the fan assembly. Although they’re not entirely correct for the King Tiger (they’re based on the Panther), the change required wasn’t worth it to me as they’ll be mostly hidden from sight anyway. Besides, I’m yet to find the person to tell me what’s wrong with them. Are you that person…? With the radiators and fans painted, I glued them into place and weathered the whole bit to match the rest of the engine components. Little work is left here with just adding a few details here and there and finish the final look with some pigments.
And that’s about it for now. Like I said before, have a look at the photos, which tell a lot more than those few words above. Now that I’m building two models at the same time (King Tiger and the Spitfire), I will be swapping between them on a monthly basis. So updates on both will also be slightly slower, but hopefully every other month. Thanks for your dedication in following these builds and I look forward to hear your comments!
The upper officeSumburgh, UK, 2016
I’m still alive… Although it’s been so quiet on this blog you might think otherwise. Having focused primarily on finishing the F-16 before the deadline, the King Tiger has progressed very slowly. Over the last couple of months (though mostly during the last few weeks) I’ve managed to do the following:
- Add welds to the turret
- Filling gun with lead
- Finished driver's seat
- First sheet of zimmerit
- Started on the turret basket
- Painted various parts of the basket
- Build a stand for turret
Now that I’ve cut open the turret, I will have to add a lot of details to the inside of it. This consists primarily of adding welds and wires, and a few other small bits. I started by gluing a few pieces in place, mostly around the commander’s hatch. Once these were in, I added the welds using the putty and a syringe technique as described in my previous post. All the major welds are now done inside, only a few small ones left to do.
I’ve been thinking about the following problem for a little while now, and trying to come up with a solution to this problem. I’m talking about the heavy gun barrel and how I can counter balance it to prevent the turret from falling off and the gun pointing downwards all the time. I placed the barrel assembly on a scale and tried to get the center of gravity on the turret mounts by adding lead inside the gun assembly itself. Turns out I needed roughly 75 grams to get it all balanced. I then added a thin sheet of styrene to seal off the gun before pouring in the load pellets mixed with PVA glue to create a solid lump. This was then left to dry for a few days. I’m still debating whether to put lead into a few shells in the back of the turret to counter the whole gun assembly and prevent the turret from falling over. But that’s something I’ll have to figure out once it’s all done and fitted to the tank.
Although (most of) the hull is complete, I still had to do the driver’s seat. With a piece of wood and some nails, I tried to make a small jig to bend the springs, but after 4 attempts, I slightly altered the design of the wavy-type springs and went with coils instead. Although it’s slightly wrong, I don’t’ think anyone will notice when looking at it. A compromise I was willing to take.
With all this work on the inside, I shifted my focus to the outside for a bit and wanted to try some of the zimmerit sheets. They’re basically thin sheets of resin that you glue onto the exterior of the tank to resemble a coat of zimmerit. The thin resin is easy to cut with a knife or scissors and already shaped correctly for each part of the tank. I started with the rear hatch of the turret and then glued on the right side (closed side). I needed a lot of clamps to keep it in place, and still requires a bit of trimming along the edges. But this will be done once all the sheets are on and I have a better idea of what needs to be adjusted. The set also comes with a few resin replacement parts, such like the rear hatch and gun armour to fit to the front of the turret.
The next logical step (at least in my mind) would be to start work on the turret basket. This is where most of the crew would be working and houses the gun mechanism as well. A very complex system of many different parts that required a bit of work to make them fit properly. Although I was planning on adding quite a bit of details to it, having put it all together and placed in inside the tank, most will be hidden from view completely. So I decided not to and simply add details there where they’ll be seen. I added a cover to the floor of the basked with styrene sheet that fits around the PTO driveshaft and used copper wire to create the wiring for the firing mechanism. A few other small details like bolts and welds were added, too.
With all the sub-assemblies now done, it was time for some paint. Having learned from my previous mistake, I started by spraying all parts with Mr. Surfacer to act as a primer. This stuff is so easy to work with and is probably the best primer I’ve ever used. After a few minutes of drying I sprayed the hull red primer onto the basket itself before following with black on various parts and seats. I then let this dry for 48 hours (mainly because I went to work during this period) before masking the basket and spraying the ivory white paint. Being very comfortable with spraying matt colours, I still seem to struggle with gloss paint. The paint is watery (even with minimal thinning) and seems to run everywhere where I don’t want it. With a few thin layers in successive order, I’m reasonably happy with the result and once it’s dry I will follow with a matt varnish to kill the gloss (reason for using gloss is because it’s the only version I could get of the correct colour).
I also build a stand for the turret to sit on during construction to allow for the lower hanging basket once glued into position. This allows me to add all the small bits and the gun as well before placing the whole construction onto the lower hull of the tank.
And that’s where we are now. Once all the parts are painted I will add the final details and decals before putting it all together and call the basket complete. After all this I quickly put the main parts together and went to see if it actually fits in my display cabinet. Seems I’ve gotten my measurements right, thankfully.
Thanks for following and hopefully I will be able to post updates on a more regular basis now.
Assembly and more paintSumburgh, UK, 2016
A lot has happened during the past month and the Tiger is slowly coming together. But still far from finished. Since the last update I’ve done the following:
- Added decals to the firewall
- Weathering of the front hull section
- Assembling parts in front of the hull
- Enhanced the hot air extractor tube for the gearbox
- Radio-operator seat and area enhanced
- Painted the first few MG ammo pouches
- Constructed, painted and fitted the gyrocompass
- Power unit for the compass build, painted and fitted
- Adjusted the tracks to get the correct slack
- Lots of work on the turret (rear hatch, commander’s hatch, and zimmerit)
- A lot of welds have been added to various parts
- Redesigned the cut-out section of the turret
First up was adding some decals to the firewall. A few decals were taken from the kit, as well as from the AFV Modeller sheet and the BK-117 project. With the decals added I sprayed all of the lower hull with matt varnish to remove the gloss look of the ivory paint. Not sure why, but I still seem to have a bit of glare around the decals, making them a bit too obvious being decals and not writing. Anyway, I’ll hopefully be able to reduce this with a bit of weathering later on.
The front of the hull section has received most of the work lately. With all the parts now painted and ready for weathering and be fitted in the tank, I started by focussing my work on the hull floor. I used various Flory washes (dark dirt, grime and black) and combined these to make a wash which would offer me different tones at random. With a big brush I applied the wash around the gearbox area, brakes, suspension and other places I thought would get dirty with leaks and oil stains. As this was drying, I added a few different tones of brown pigment to the mix to create dirt around the driver’s and radio-operator’s seat areas. With the wash now almost dry, I sprinkled the pigment around the same area to add a bit more of a 3D effect to it all. With all of this dry, it gave me a matt finish. Yet as we all know, oil tends to have a wet-look to it. So I used gloss varnish and dabbed it around randomly to create this wet-look effect of oil stains that haven’t dried up yet. The process was then repeated for all the parts that were going to be fitted in the front of the hull.
With all the weathering done, it was time to add all the parts together and start bringing the tank to life. I worked my way from the back to the front, with the fuel tanks and batteries going in first. The steering housing was next and slotted in place with little problem. Before placing the gearbox, I added the drive chain sections to the turret power convertor and gearbox. The assembly was then placed into position on glued to the floor and engine in the back. The connection between the gearbox and steering housing needed a bit of filling, but I eventually solved the gap issue by moving the gearbox inside the cover a bit and re-glue it. Now that the main items were in place, I could focus on the small parts for the driver. I added levers, pedals, a floorboard, handbrake lever, breathing tube, flashlight, and the steering wheel itself. The seat isn’t finished yet and will be fitted later. With all this in place, it starts to become very cramped in there and I’m starting to wonder how someone could live in there, especially during battle.
An item that needed some extra work before being able to become part of the tank was the hot air extractor tube for the gearbox. This will be added to the back of the gearbox, but is missing its distinctive welds. I added these using PVA glue and a cocktail stick. Once dry I painted the item in the hull red like the rest and applied a bit of pigment for weathering. It was then glued in place.
The seat for the radio-operator is moulded as a simple piece of plastic, which needed a lot of work to match the real thing. I cut the plastic seat off completely and closed the gap with a piece of styrene sheet. Once the glue had dried I mixed some modelling clay and started shaping it based on photos of the real seat. After some shaping and reshaping until I was happy, I painted the seat black and the rest of the frame hull red before weathering using pigments again. I made sure everything had plenty of time to dry before fitting it into the tank. The box behind the radio-operator also received some work in the form of adding some L-shaped strips to form a rectangular in which a box with MG parts will fit later. This was then painted and weathered as before and glued in place. The junction box behind it was painted and detailed using a silver gel pen. A lot easier to control than a brush. The back support was added and various boxed with spare parts for the MG gun too.
With the right side almost finished, I moved back to the left side and began work on the MG ammo pouches. I decided to only add 2 to the rail and set the scenario in which the others have already been used. The pouches were painted with a brush in a tan colour with a black lit before weathered with a wash. The wash was then toned down using a moist cotton bud until I was happy before gluing them in place with CA. Normal Tamiya glue didn´t work as the pouches are a resin cast. A bit of scratching was achieved using a silver/metallic pencil.
Up next was the gyrocompass which is fitted right in front of the driver. This was a multiple part resin cast item which I got from AFV Modeller. The hole in the back was drilled out to fit wiring later before being painted black. All my black is actually anthracite to avoid using pure black colours. I placed the decal on the main part and once this dried I glued the front section on top of it. In order to recreate the glass, I laid the part flat and added a generous amount of PVA glue. This then dried completely clear and gave me the look I was after. The assembly was glued in place after weathering and the wires attached.
The gyrocompass has a separate power unit which is another resin part I got from AFV Modeller. (The site is run by David Parker, well known within the modelling society for his King Tiger build). As with the compass, I drilled the holes in preparation of the wires before painting it black. Highlights were achieved using a metallic pen and the decals were taken from the BK-117 project (I wasn’t going to use these anyway since I’ve got 4 sets of them and they happen to be in German too). I placed it on the supporting rack and wired it up using 0.5 mm electrical wire.
After all this I needed a little break from the front section and had a look at the tracks. I’ve read a lot about them being too long, so I wanted to see how much work this was going to take. I placed all the road wheels on the suspensions and placed the sprocket wheel at the front. As with the real machine, I then ‘drove’ the tank over it while dragging the tracks around. I turns out I will have to remove 2 links in order to get the right look. I reversed the process to remove the tracks before cutting them to size. The tracks will be put aside for now until a later stage where they’ll be painted and fitted to the tank.
I moved my focus to the top section of the tank and did some work on the turret. I wanted to see how the new zimmerit sheets look like once in place and began working on the rear of the turret. The armoured plates were glued in place and the resin replacement part was fitted and glued into place. I decided to leave the rear hatch open, since it will add to my diorama, but also allow for extra light to enter the model. The hatch isn’t too badly detailed in itself, but could use some extra work. The locking mechanism is moulded in the closed position, so this had to be rebuild from scratch since the hatch would be in the open position. I cut off the handles and drilled out the blocks before replacing the missing parts with plastic rods. Small holes of 1 mm were drilled and the new handles were glued in the open position. The new assembly is actually fully workable and allows me to place it in both the open and locked position. I initially made a chain by twisting copper wire using an electric drill, but after being pointed in a different direction I removed this again. It will be replaced with a miniature chain from a German company called “Steba” once it arrives hopefully later this month. Really worth having a look at for all your miniature modelling requirements (find their catalogue here).
With the rear hatch now almost complete (I’m waiting on an Aber set to get the rest done) I had a look at the commander’s hatch. Trumpeter has moulded the periscopes as part of the upper ring, but I’ll be replacing them with clear resin parts, so they had to be cut out. I used a knife to get a rough cut before using the sanding sticks to achieve a smooth finish. With the periscopes removed I glued the armoured covers in place and added the ring which will hold the AA MG gun. The mechanism for opening the actual hatch was slightly modified and glued in the open position. As mentioned before, I´ll be opening as many hatches as possible to maximize the amount of light entering the model.
A colleague of mine at work gave me a syringe which I could try for creating welds. The syringe is normally used to draw blood and has a hollow tip of around 1mm in diameter. I cut the tip to about a quarter of its length and placed some white putty in the reservoir. Taking quite a bit of pressure, it does allow me to precisely add the putty where I want it. I gave it a go and started applying the putty around the periscope armoured plates. I then used a tool with a round head (can’t remember what they’re called) to create the welding look. Not perfect yet, but I’m starting to learn how to use it and as the photos might show, the welds are starting to look better each time. With some putty left in the syringe, I added welds to the gun as well before cleaning it all.
Since I wasn’t entirely happy with the way my cut-outs looked, I had a brief discussion with my dad who gave me some good ideas. Though slightly deviating from the original plan, I followed the contours of the turret and cut the front bit away too. As with the rest, I left a 6mm edge all the way around which was achieved using a Dremel and sanding sticks. The gap between the two plastic plates will be filled with putty later on and thus create the armour thickness like I’ve done with the rest of the cut.
That’s it for now, lots more planned for the near future. I’ll be working on the F-16 now as well, since it arrived today and has a deadline for its completion, so progress may be a bit slower than it has been for the last few weeks. Thanks for watching!
Paint, lots of itSumburgh, UK, 2016
With so much work going into the F-16 project to get it finished in time, the King Tiger has been going a bit slow. But despite that, I think I’ve made some decent progress of the last couple of weeks. A short list of the things I’ve done:
- Adding the driver’s floorboard
- Weathering the engine bay and fitting the engine
- Working on the new fan boxes and firewall
- Adding gallons of paint
- Detail painting
A vital part from the driver’s side is the floorboard for his feet to rest on, but this is missing from the model. Based on photos I made this from scratch. I purchased a few sheets of styrene with a tread plate pattern to match the rest of the vehicle. Firstly I made a template from paper before cutting it from styrene. By gently heating it, I was able to bend it to shape to fit over the wheel axels and framework. This was then glued on top of a piece of styrene tube to get the correct height. The only thing left to do is add 4 bolts, made from thin styrene sheet with a punch set. Once that’s done I’ll be able to paint and add it to the model.
Before I would paint the lower bit, I needed to sort the top half out, as it didn’t fit nicely at all. Since I’ve added the extra padding on the sides to match the real armour thickness, the seam between the sides and top half showed a massive gap. So it was back to square one and remove the extra padding. This wasn’t as easy as I hoped, as it was glued down with extra thin and bonded extremely well. After a lot of cutting with a knife and cursing, let alone almost cutting my finger a few millimeters shorter, I managed to remove both sides without too much damage to the upper hull. Now that this was gone, the sides fitted a lot better already, but still leaving a gap. This was the result of a poor fit at the front of the part, where it would slide into the lower half. I started by sanding down this bit, but took me way too long. I decided to apply some more force and out came the Dremel. After some serious grinding the parts fitted nicely. A quick swipe with a sanding stick to make it look somewhat decent and I was happy. That’s the fit between the lower and upper hull sorted. Eventually I’ll add a thin sheet of plastic underneath the sides to make it all smooth and straight, but that will come later.
Now that the fit was sorted, I needed to decide whether to paint the front half, or fit the engine first to allow me to fit the rear wall. This would then allow me to bend the sides straight before painting, which would probably result in extra surface tension and paint cracking. So I decided to fit the engine first. This meant that I would have to weather the engine bay first. I used the Flory wash ‘dark dirt’ and generously applied it to the firewalls. Once dry I used kitchen towel and cotton buds to tone it down until I achieved the desired look. I then followed with pigment and added rust, black, and brown to break the red and recreate some oil leaks and such. Having never used the wash before, I was quite happy with the result. It’s a good area to practice, since most of it will be hidden from sight anyway. With the weathering done it was time to fit the engine. With an average of 10 head-scratches and curse words per minute, I finally was able to “force” the engine in place. I finally understood why people were saying it is a poor and difficult fit to get it in place. Damn…. I think after about 20 minutes the engine was in and I could glue it in place. The poor fit resulted in bending of the firewalls, which were forced back to their correct position with heavy tools and clamps. I made sure that everything was still reachable before gluing the rear wall in place. A lot of glue and bending of the lower hull was required to get a nice fit, but eventually I succeeded. In hindsight I should have used a mask, as the glue fumes got to my head a bit. Think I finally understand what it feels like to be high.
Up next was reshaping the cooling fans, as they’ll be visible in the final model. First I drilled holes in the lips attached to the top of the fan, which were hooks to allow removal of the boxes. With the holes now drilled, I sanded the part down to match the size of the filters which are fitted to the sides. Using photos a reference, I cut styrene sheets to size and glued them to fans to form a box. Having kept the original firewall hose fittings in my spare parts box, I was able to salvage the connector fittings and added them to the fan boxes. With a large amount of time spent of the first box, I opted to enhance the right side only slightly to the areas that will be seen. I’ll leave the right side covered, so the only bit you can see is through the engine bay and firewall. I glued a short foot to the bottom of the box to achieve the correct height and added the hose connectors to the newly formed box.
With all this work done to the rear section, it was nice to finally get the paint down. I started off with a new type of primer which I’d never used before (stupid, stupid, stupid). No problems with putting it down. Next was the first layer of paint, the hull red primer colour. Again, no problems putting it down and the airbrush did a great job. At this point I ran into a problem, as I didn’t have the correct colour for the top half. The early King Tigers had an ivory white paint applied to the top half, which included all vehicles with a Porsche turret. I didn’t have this colour, so back to the shopping site to order some. The only paint I could find that matched what I was looking for came in gloss, which is okay, but not perfect. Anyway, I went for it and bought a jar. The gloss is easily overcome with a coat of matt varnish later on. The new paint arrived a couple of days later and I was eager to get going with it. As easy the red colour went on, as difficult this one was. It eventually took me 4 coats of this stuff in order to get a nice solid finish. So far so good, right. The time came to remove the masking tape and see what the red and ivory combination looked like. Disaster…! It turns out that my new primer doesn’t like enamel pains. As soon as I removed the tape, most of the red paint came with it! An absolute nightmare! After counting to 10 (or perhaps a bit further), I tossed the primer in the bin, rubbish stuff. Next up was coming up with an idea to restore the damage. Part of the ivory paint had come off as well, since it was sprayed on top of the primer red. I decided to use a brush and reapply the red primer colour, even where it removed the ivory paint. I figured a bit of paint damage and wear seems possible, especially in the fighting compartment where empty shell casings would bounce around and a lot of movement takes place during shooting. With a brush I applied the paint in a dabbing motion, trying to blend it in with the still remaining paint. I think it turned out pretty well actually, and in hindsight I’m pretty pleased with what happened. Perhaps not as it should have been, but a bit of personal artistic creativity is never wrong, right? After all, it’s my model.
I also painted most of the parts that belong in the front of the hull, such as the gearbox and oil reservoir. Before I’m able to fit these to the model, I’ll have to glue the wheel axels in place, which were painted as well in anthracite black. I’ve detail painted them with a small brush using various paints before giving them a wash (combination of grime and dark dirt). I picked up a very handy tip a while ago, and added scratches using a pencil. A lot easier to use and control than a brush. With all the details added these parts are now ready to be fitted to the model. Last but not least a lot of effort went into painting the items mounted on the rear firewall.
The next step will be to add a few decals to the firewall and spray the lower hull with a matt varnish in order to get rid of the glossy look of the ivory paint. Once that’s done I’ll fit all the parts and hopefully be able to add details like wiring and weathering to it. But that’s something for the next update.
Hope you’re enjoying the build and new photos. I’ve also edited and uploaded the second part of the time-lapse videos, which can be found on my YouTube channel, found here. (I’ve got some problems uploading it to my website, hopefully I’ll have this sorted shortly). Until next time!
Big model, big updateSumburgh, UK, 2015
It’s been a while since my last update on the King Tiger project, mainly because I’ve been building the F-16, which took longer than anticipated. Despite the slight setback, we’re back in business now! And there’s a long list of things I’ve done to follow.
The engine was the first thing I continued working on. I’ve added the exhaust, carburettors and a lot of scratch build piping. The last was done because it would enhance the detail and reality of the whole engine, but also because quite a few plastic pipes broke during clean up. To prevent myself from spending too many hours on this, I decided to only add detail to the parts you can actually see. That means the piping is added to the top but not the bottom parts, and the same will be done with painting and weathering later on. Once the engine itself was put together, I finished the fans that go on top and put together a few other items that will be part of the engine assembly later on. Before painting, I wanted to be sure it still fits, so after a lot of wiggling and gently forcing it in place, the engine fitted in the space between the firewalls. Next up was painting the engine and its components. I started with a primer followed by a layer of black. I then tried my new buffable paint and painted the top half with it. This paint is special in a way that you can “buff” it, i.e. rub it with a cloth, to create a metallic effect. I’ve never used this before but the result is really good and makes the engine look almost real! Once I was happy with the amount of metallic shine, I painted the pipes and all the other details in various colours before starting the weathering process using pigments and washes. I don’t want to weather the engine (and most of the interior) too much as these tanks were relatively young compared to other tanks during the war. My subject for instance was only a year old. Now that the engine was finished it was time to move on to the firewalls.
The firewalls are very accurately represented, if you’re building a panther tank. Sadly I wasn’t so I had to change a few things. The most obvious part was the connecting panel that links the engine and cooling fans together. I cut the old parts out and build a new one from scratch using plastic sheets and strips. Most of that will be done later on because it’s part of the cooling fan, which will be build later on.
To make sure I would be happy with the sections I want to cut out before actually cutting them, I decided to put the tank somewhat together to get an idea of the final look once completed. Basically I’ll have most of the side cut out and a lot of the hatches open around the engine. That way you can see most if not all of the interior as well as the exterior. Not entirely sure yet of what the final diorama surroundings will look like, besides that it will be a snow scenery.
It seems not just the firewalls are based on the panther in this kit, the same goes for the fuel tanks and cooling fans. So I’ve changed these to match the King Tiger. The fuel tanks were made of a single tank, thus requiring me to fill the gap between the two tanks that came with the kit. I used plastic strips to roughly fill it before finishing it off with putty. Once sanded, the tank was fitted with straps that would have kept it in place in the real machine. Then the process was repeated for the right side tank. The fans are actually pretty good, although the adjustable opening vanes will need some work. In regards to the fans, all I did was flatten one of the radiators with putty. For some reason they used two different types in the real machine, so now mine does too.
Before cutting the plastic hull and stopping myself from making any changes, I put as many completed parts as I could inside the model to see what it will look like with everything in place. The clear cover is really helping with this since it allows me to simply change things until I’m satisfied, only thing I’m not sure about is the amount of light I’ll eventually have because the clear is letting through a lot more than the grey plastic will. But I’m pretty happy with the way I have it now, so the next step will be to transfer this to the plastic version and start cutting.
After sniffing glue for so long, it was time for something stronger and I began spraying the wheels. Since the wheels will be put together, I won’t be able to paint the insides anymore, so I had to do this before gluing them. After debating which colour to go for, I sprayed them dark tan yellow before finishing off with a dirty brown wash to weather them. I’m very happy with the result, although you can’t really see much of it anymore.
By now I put most of the interior parts that didn’t require adjusting together, so it was time to cut the grey plastic hull. I transferred the layout from the clear version using masking tape and once I was happy with that, I took out the dremel and started cutting. Once the rough outline was done, I finished the openings by sanding it all nice and smooth using different types of sanding sticks.
Now that I cut out the openings in the hull, it became apparent that the thickness was nowhere near the actual armoured plates it would have had in real life. So after measuring and converting figures to my scale, I added plastic sheets on the inside of the hull around the openings to recreate the thickness. I then filled any gaps with putty before sanding it smooth. These edges will eventually be painted in a dark red colour I think to highlight the fact that the hull is actually cut open and not resembling the real thing (a bit like you see when they open up a vehicle or engine in a museum).
Getting addicted to the smell of paint I began spraying the engine compartment and all it’s associated parts in the standard brown/red primer colour the Germans used for their vehicles during the war. This will be further enhanced by washes and weathering once I’ve sprayed the rest of the interior as well. But for now it’ll be covered up with kitchen towel while I finish the interior parts.
To give myself a little break from the lower half of the tank and get a feel for the actual size of it once completed, I began working on the gun assembly. It’s basically a large plastic puzzle with a massive aluminium pipe sticking out of it. Only then did I realize the massive size of this kit, simply enormous! Guess that explains why I had to order a bespoke display cabinet for it, won’t fit in anything else… I cut all the parts from the sprues and cleaned them up. I managed to put a few parts together, but soon realized I needed to buy some different type of putty to recreate all the welds. So back to ebay and spending more cash on this kit. Starting to get pretty expensive…
With the gun on a hold, I had to look for something else that I could put together, and decided the turret ring could use some attention. The biggest problem with this, and I read a lot about it online, is the fact that the upper half of the tank doesn’t fit on the lower half. So, what to do? Well I started by gently sanding the inner ring of the turret floor to make it thinner. But after sanding for what seemed like hours (think it was close to 30 minutes) I decided that wasn’t working at all. When I tried fitting it again, I noticed the ring wasn’t even visible, no matter which way you looked at it. Which meant that in my frustrated state, I simply took out the dremel multi-tool and started cutting the whole thing away. Now it fits nicely.
In order to make the tank resemble a home for its crew, I went on the internet and started looking for photos of German soldiers and their families. I quickly found a couple of good looking ones and converted them to scale using Photoshop before printing them. I did the same to end up with a map of Hungary, which will be placed in the commander’s hands once the diorama is complete. I will also add a magazine and newspaper to add some realism to the model.
Another area that required quite some work is that of the driver. A lot has been done to the gearbox already, but the seat and throttle linkage were still far from good. The linkage was build from scratch using plastic strips to create a cover and linkage, while using metal rods for in between the parts. Although it’s not exactly the way it would have looked in real life, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. Besides, most of it will be covered by a floor plate and seat anyway. The accelerator pedal was way too small and required one build from scratch as well. I used one of the resin feet from the commander to measure the size of it before constructing it from styrene sheets. With all the parts covering it once completed, you can hardly see it’s a little too big. Let’s just say the driver has heavy feet, requiring a sturdy pedal… The driver’s seat is made of two parts of plastic, which looks absolutely ridiculous and nowhere near the real thing. So after ditching them in the nearest bin, I made one from plastic tubes and recreated the seat cushions from putty. The only thing left to do is add the spring coils to the back, which will be made from copper wire later on.
The lower hull was put together like a jigsaw puzzle and would have had large torch cuts and weld seams on it. But the model didn’t really portrait these very well, so I cut 1mm trenches around the torch cuts before filling them with putty from a syringe, creating the weld seams. The torch cuts were made using a soldering iron with a thin tip and dragging them over the plastic very gently. A lightly sanded them afterwards to get a more scale effect.
The gearbox would have had a secondary acceleration pedal for the driver if he were seated on the raised chair, allowing him to look outside through the hatch. But this part was completely missing from the kit, so had to be build from scratch as well. Using photos from the real machine and the model build by David Parker, I used styrene sheets and strips to make the part myself. Once the pedal was complete, I also added another layer of the primer/sanding dust mix to get the cast iron effect. Once that was dry I enhanced the gearbox with a casting number, which is made of a decal with raised letters/numbers.
Another thing that was missing from the kit is the flashlight, located left of the driver’s seat behind the suspension. I made this using a piece of the weapons that came with the Hind model and added styrene covers to the top and bottom to seal the canister. The frame to hold it in place was also made of styrene and a brass strip to secure it.
The interior of the tank was filled with weapons and ammo. Besides the ammo shells for the gun, the rest is all missing. So I ordered ammo pouches online and weapons for the crew as well. These will be added later on once the interior is finished, but I did add a rail to hold the pouches on the driver’s side. It’s basically a u-shaped plastic strip glued in place with putty to resemble welding seams.
The King Tiger carried a lot of spare periscopes inside and these were positioned in special brackets mounted on the interior walls. The ones that came with the kit as part of the lower hull didn’t look right at all and I sanded them off early on. The new ones were made using a spare periscope to size it up and then put together using plastic strips.
The latest addition to the model is the new junction box I made by reshaping a different part (I think it was a box or something similar from a different kit) and added the wiring using copper wire that comes out the side. The box was actually moulded into the hull during the production process, but I didn’t like this one very much and removed it as I did with the periscope brackets.
And that’s it… for now. I’m back in business when it comes to building this amazing model and will receive my full attention until finished. So expect more blog updates and photos soon as I progress with the interior and start painting it all very soon. Until then, enjoy the photos that show you all the things mentioned above and as always, until next time!
Birth of the mighty beastSumburgh, UK, 2015
It may have taken a while, but the birth of the mighty beast has finally happened. A first in many ways; it’s my biggest project to date, and the first project to be filmed in a time-lapse. A huge undertaking that will take me a lot of time to complete. Let’s begin!
The first thing to do was to unpack the massive box it came in. I’ve never seen so many sprues come for a single box. Is all of it supposed to fit inside this model?! Once I’ve cut open all the bags I labeled each sprue with tape and the letter on it to ease in the organizing of parts. A very handy trick I picked up online. Once everything was opened and labeled I put them back in the box, ironically enough. I simply don’t have the space to have them all lay around on my desk, so they’re in a box underneath the table where I can easily access them when needed.
Work started on the lower hull, which was quickly modified by filling all the sink marks and sanding the parts that would receive detailing later on, such as the spare periscopes. The suspensions were added as well as the internal support structure, which will eventually be completely hidden from sight for the most part. I know this model will receive a lot of extra detailing and corrections to resemble the real thing, I’ll keep it to the things that are actually visible once finished. Otherwise there’s not ending to it and this project will take years to complete. Most of the detailing will be done to the gearbox assembly, driver- and radio operator area, engine, and turret.
According to the manual, you’re supposed to start with assembling all the wheels. With 18 wheels, each made up of 4 parts, this was quite the thing to start this model with. I marked all the wheels and cut them from the sprue, but they’re all in a box at the moment, as they’ll be finished later on when they’re needed. Although I might do a few wheels at a time to spread the boring work over a period. We’ll see how things work out.
The drive axels were next, the same amount of work, although only consisting of 3 parts this time. Due to the molding process, each piece came with a nice ridge on both sides where the molds came together during production. I scraped all of them off and assembled the pieces together. These will be painted black later on before being fitted to the model.
Up next was the gearbox assembly and steering housing. Not a bad fit at all, looks a lot like the real machine. But after a closer look and comparing it with reference material, I decided this needed work as well. I assembled most of the parts to see where it needed the most of work and whether it would actually be visible once completed. The gearbox used to be made of cast iron, so I managed to get the same look by mixing Mr. Surfacer (a primer type of paint) with the dust of sanded sprues. This was then applied to the parts, resulting in a rough finish, much like cast iron. Although I’m pretty happy with the result, I’ll probably give it another layer before painting to enhance the effect.
The gearbox housing needed the most work. So far I’ve cut parts out, added a strip which was used to keep it all together and fitted some of the levers. Still a lot to do, such as a gearlever, nuts and bolts, hooks for hoisting, and a few other bits and pieces.
I’ve also started working on the engine, which by now is actually almost ready for primer and paints. Not finished yet, but since most of it will be hidden from view, the detailing will mostly be done on the top part. The engine itself consists of almost 200 parts! The build itself is pretty straight forward, with a few things causing issues when fitted. Most of this was solved quickly before gluing them in place.
I want to be able to show the interior of the model. To do this, I’ll have to cut out a piece of the exterior hull, enabling you to look inside. I spend many hours debating what to cut out and what not. Eventually I came up with a design that allows you to see a lot of the inside, but also leave enough space for the outside details and finishing. I’ve used the clear covers and masked them with tape as they allow me to see inside without cutting anything. This will eventually be transferred to the solid plastic version, which is easier to work with.
Well, that’s it for now. Photos will be uploaded today as well, so don’t forget to have a look. And as always, until next time!
Bigger and BiggerEnschede, NL, 2014
Not being able to resist a limited edition like this, I started doing some research and quickly discovered that this would be a great model to build as a semi see-through. Combining both the clear and plastic versions should allow me to build a very accurate interior which can be seen by everyone, while still being able to add details to the outside of the tank. I will go for a winter version of the tank, based on the famous "Annelise" from the 503rd SS.Pz.Abt.
I've already found many aftermarket parts which will be of great use. Unfortunately it's hard to get good information since most tanks were lost during the war. However, there is a museum in Germany and in the UK who have a King Tiger on display. Looks like I'll be travaling around for a bit soon ;)
It will be a while before my next post on this page will come, as I have to build my BK-117 first. Photos will come later as well, but you can already see the size of the box on the photo on the left...