Brünhilda - Blog

Home to the latest updates and stories on the life of Brünhilda. Written in similar fashion to my modelling updates with the newest entry at the top, only this time with an easy and accessible archive section on the right-hand side (or via the button below for your mobile devices). Click on the title of any post you'd like to visit and it'll take you straight there, and if you're here for the latest update, simply scroll down to the first blog entry you see.

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Back in Business

20 Nov. 2020 | Stoughton, UK | By Niek Nijsen

Wait, has it really been three months since I last wrote something here?! Has it really been three months of just newsletters to keep you updated on what’s going on?! My sincerest apologies, I’ve completely lost track of what I’m doing with my time. At least I can say all the work I’ve been putting into the house is almost finished, so that should mean more time in the garage soon! All I can offer you now, is one massive update on Brünhilda’s restoration progress. So, you better get you’re drink ready, clear your schedule for the next hour and grab a comfy seat and perhaps be like me wishing you knew how to “speed read” and be done with it in just a few minutes.

I noticed that I completely forgot about the rear subframe in the previous post. After I got the engine removed and the front bits taken off, attention focussed on the rear part of the car again. Mind you, there’s not a lot left to choose from at this point, it’s either the rear end or the windscreens. And the latter I’m holding off for as long as I can. Anyway, the rear subframe is held in place by a few bolts on support brackets and a largen one that also mounts the rear diff. In general, this would allow for an easy and quick removal by dropping it like I did with the engine up front. In general… Although pretty straightforward on paper, it turned out to be a bit more complicated in rear life. The problem was that my lift arms are partially covering the bolts that hold the subframe support brackets in place, as they hide just behind the jack points. What made things even worse is the fact that the car was now in a stage that moving her is no longer an option. Eventually, I can up with an idea to put the jack underneath the diff, allowing the car to be suspended in the air far enough to reposition the rear arms. I did end up using a piece of wood to support he body a bit better on a less fragile part, but other than that it was pretty easy. Now that I finally had access to the bolts, I was able to remove them. Yet I almost forgot to undo the top mount of the shock absorbers. Wait, not almost, I simply forgot to do them. Bit embarrassing when I tried to lift the car up and the whole frame went upwards with it. Luckily, I only raised it very slightly before I figured out what was going on and the nuts were quickly removed at the top of said shock absorbers. At this point the subframe was completely loose from the bodyshell and it was finally ready to be separated from the body. The wooden cart previously used for the engine was placed underneath and thankfully the subframe stayed behind this time as I raised the car. I subsequently repositioned the arms back to support the car at the jack points as before.

Other than the windscreens, the only items that I could remove at this point were the bonnet and boot. I ended up not filming any of this for the Project C.A.R.™ series as they’re pretty simple to remove. All it takes are a few bolts that hold the hinges attached to the car and once they’re undone the whole thing lifts off. Whereas the boot is not too heavy and can be done by one person, the bonnet most certainly required an extra hand. Unless you’re strong like “The Rock”, who recently removed his own steel driveway gate after an electrical failure while desperate to get to work. Good thing I don’t have a gate.

Anyway, back to Brünhilda. I could no longer postpone the removal of the dreaded windscreens. Apparently, it’s quite a nightmare to get these removed and instructions or suggestions are minimal and far from helpful. I knew by now that they both come out with the rubbers and chrome strip attached, but I hadn’t figured out how to simply do this and without breaking the lot. I needed some form of a wedge I could push between the rubber and the car body and then “flip” the rubber over the edge to pop it out. Sometimes, after long and hard thinking, you end up with an idea that’s so simple, yet astonishingly beautiful. Yes, you guest it correctly, I ended up using wooden clothes pegs, the ones you use to hang up your laundry. I separated both halves of the pegs and used the thing long end to wedge in between the rubber and body from the inside of the car. Once I had a few of these in and thus creating a bit of a gap, I was able to insert another peg and “flip” it, thereby lifting the rubber over the metal edge and freeing the window for what appears to be the first time since it was placed there in 1974. What surprised me the most was the condition and quality of both the rubber and metal work surrounding it. I might even be able to clean and reuse it, which would be a huge cost saver. Fingers crossed. Before I forget, you’ll be pleased to know I recorded this in full detail and will probably dedicate an entire episode to this, as it’s something I think will be very helpful to fellow classic car restorers with a similar setup.

I mentioned, or at least I think it did in my newsletters, that we were still on schedule for the chem dip. She was collected in early September and as Bill Withers so famously sang in the early 70’s, “there ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone”. Each time I walked into the garage it felt like there’s something missing. Alright smartass, obviously there is. What made things worse was that I had no clue what to expect coming back; Will there be something resembling a car shell, or will it be a bucket with some metal flakes in it…? Find out the results after the break.

While the car was being stripped by multiple dips in a chem bath, I was still left with the rear subframe laying on the floor of the garage, waiting to be taken apart before stored on the shelves. For some reason this turned into almost desperation, as I couldn’t seem to get them to move at all. It also doesn’t help that the BMW workshop manual only does this while the wheels and brakes are still attached and working, something that clearly isn’t an option for me at this point. It was time again to put my brain to work and come up with a solution. My first attempt using a standard socket wrench went pretty bad, to the point that I got my hands stuck between the frame and the cart multiple times. Battered and bruised I soldiered on, but the final drive shafts kept on rotating every time I put pressure on the bolts. Clearly, this wasn’t working. A suggestion came from a colleague at work, who in his spare time restores Mercedes G-Wagons. He kindly lent me his impact drill with suitable sockets. Blimey, this made quick work of those frustrating bolts. In hindsight I could’ve done this myself as I now realised, I have an impact drill as part of my compressed air tool collection, but that would mean I need to get my compressor working first. Anyway, the borrowed impact drill made quick work of the bolt removal process and the only thing I remember vividly is how dirty this job came to be. A lot of grease, oil (assuming from the diff itself somehow), dirt and other “muck” that’s been collecting there for the last 45 years. Heck, it took me longer to clean the mess up afterwards than it took me to remove the bolts themselves, including earlier attempts. Now that the final drive shafts were finally separated from the subframe, I could continue by removing the standard CS diff, which will be replaced by a limited slip version (3.45 ratio for those who are keen to know). Next up where the semi-trailing arms, which are the triangle-shaped metal “arms” that hold the wheel in place and allow for the movement of the shock absorbers which are mounted on top of them. These needed a bit of motivation to come off as well but were pretty straightforward once the bolts were out. Nothing you can’t solve with some positive motivation though a massive hammer. As I lifted each part to their storage location in the garage, it felt like half the forest came falling out, with leaves, twigs, nuts and dirt all dropping onto the floor. Either the mice that lived inside the rear seats had a holiday home as well, or it was the winter storage for some of the local squirrels. Either way, the garage was once a gain a big mess.

However, with the garage empty, this was the perfect time to do some long-awaited upgrading and reorganising of the garage, as this would probably be the only time I could before the car would be back. Most of this is to make better use of the space available and some in prep for Brünhilda’s return, as I’ll be needing a system that stores the boot lid and bonnet out of the way while I’m making the necessary modifications to both ends of the car. As such, I’ve installed a hoist system above the door where they’ll be stored for the time being. Little did I know the bonnet would be too heavy to lift like this and the whole system would need some serious redesigning by an engineer (my dad) before it could be used. Oh well, can’t win them all. I also put the whiteboard to good use by printing all the photos of cars I like and stuck them on there. Hopefully this way it’s easier for me to convey my ideas to someone than trying to make sense of my garbled mind. Time will tell.

At this point there was literally nothing left to do until she returned, aside from cleaning a lot of the parts I previously removed, but I’m putting this off for as long as I can. However, mid-October I finally got the call that Brünhilda was completely clean and ready to return home. She was delivered that same day and is now back home, temporarily stored under her winter blanket, which I’ll remove when I start on the repair works. That being said, I had a quick look at her and although the car itself seems to be in a good condition overall (especially for an E9), there are some very poor repairs visible that have been done by the previous owner(s), which will require some serious attention.

We’ve now arrived in November and I’ve got some help in the garage. After many delays, my parents have finally been able to come across to the UK for a few weeks. Although most of this time was spent working on other improvements in the house, the last few days we’ve been able to work on the car. The first step was to prepare the garage for all the dust that appears during welding and grinding of metal. We ended up covering both sides of the garage with large sheets of tarpaulin, which still allow access to the items behind, be it the storage shelves or my workbench. Next, we relocated a few items so that there was space in the centre of the garage for the new TIG welder (my old one, which was second-hand, never worked apparently, as three different repair centres confirmed). Initially we struggled a bit with the set-up, but eventually got it working. Lastly, we moved the boot and bonnet lids to their storage space above the door, the hoist system needing some rethinking before it eventually worked. But at least we’re now left with a bodyshell that’s accessible and ready to be worked on.

It wasn’t long before work started as dad was pretty eager to get his hands on Brünhilda (is it me or does that sound wrong…?) and the first step was to cut a big hole in the boot in order to fit the new “box” that will end up housing the new fuel tank, mainly because the bloody box is in our way now. A template was made from thick paper card and marked in the boot. Out came the angle grinder and off he went, making short work of the spare wheel section that’s now no longer part of the car. As this went a bit faster than anticipated, we figured we’d try to fit the new roll cage. This turned out to be a bit of a puzzle to get it in but eventually we got it in place, only to find out that the rear section was different than what we were led to believe it would be like. Instead of going through the rear shelf, it is mounted to the wheel arches, thus going through the rear seats. Something that doesn’t work for my intended use as a road car, so I’m currently in touch with the manufacturer to try and solve the issue. Anyway, dad figured the front section fitted nicely and began cutting holes in the car where it mounts to the bodyshell.

And other than a bit of practice welding on a scrap piece of metal, that’s pretty much were we are now. Unfortunately, I’m at work for most of this month, so I doubt there will be a lot of work done to the car either. Which also means I’ve fallen behind on the Project C.A.R.™ episodes. I’ve missed the previous bi-weekly deadline and it seems I won’t be making the next one either at the end of this month. I’ll do my best to get the next instalment online as quick as I can, but you might have to wait a little longer than usual. That being said, I did upload quite a few episodes over the last few months since the last update, so if you haven’t already, there’s plenty of quality footage to watch. These include the side windows, doors, brakes, wheel hub assemblies, engine removal and gearbox separation.

Thank goodness you’ve made it to the end of this update, I told you it would be a long one. Thank you for sticking with me on this project and hopefully I’ll have another (be it a somewhat shorter) update for your soon. See you then!

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Stripped bare

14 Aug. 2020 | Stoughton, UK | By Niek Nijsen

We ended last month with a bit of a cliff-hanger as I was waiting for the new tools to arrive. I’m happy to report they have been delivered and they’re the right size. The new 36mm socket allowed me to rotate the crankshaft from the front of the engine, which meant I now had access to the 4 bolts that keep the automatic transmission attached to the engine block. It’s a very small workspace and it’s actually recommended to remove these bolts while the engine and gearbox are still attached to the car, where you’ll have easier access to them. Hindsight is a beautiful thing, isn't it? Eventually I got the bolts removed and the gearbox was now free to be separated from the engine. I thought I drained all the fluid, but it turned out the torque converter (a big drum-shaped part that sits between the gearbox and engine) was still completely full. So, when I finally came to pull the two apart, the floor was covered in oil… Great, another 30 minutes and half a blue-roll well spent on cleaning up the mess.

Anyway, now that the gearbox was out of the way, I could shift my attention to getting the engine mounted to the stand. Easier said than done. For some reason the crane and stand didn’t like each other much and I had to position the engine in all kinds of weird positions in order to get it mounted properly. The problem originated in the difference in width between the legs of the engine stand and those of the crane, the first being about 2 cm wider. I think I spent about 2 hours or so doing this and I’m sure it’ll all be available for your entertainment in a future episode. Having said that, the engine did eventually align with the stand properly and got it mounted. The oil was drained, and the engine stored aside for the time being. As I'm not sure an engine stand is designed for (long-term) storage of the engine, I've also supported the block by positioning a wooden beam underneath the engine mount. So far it seems to be holding well.

With the engine out of the way, attention shifted to the front of the car. Not a lot left to do here, as most items were already missing, aside from a single headlight and some left-over wiring. Both were quickly removed which was quickly follwed by the removal of the remaining chrome strip and the BMW badge. And that pretty much concluded the stripping of the entire car. All I’ve got to do now is remove the front and rear windscreens, something I’ll be doing at the end of the month.

The final bit of big news is that the car is booked in for the chem bath, in which all paint and rust will be stripped from the body. Hopefully there’s some left of her by the time she’s coming back. Then the fun will begin of repairing the metal work and putting in all the modifications. I’m currently in the process of sourcing a roll cage and a few other items that are still on the to-do list. The plan is to provide you with more details on that in the next update.

In the meantime, you will have noticed the next episode is available on YouTube and the website. In the three that have been uploaded since the last update, we’re clearing out the boot/trunk (episode 06), remove the door trim (episode 07) and remove the side windows (episode 08 - well worth a watch). This Sunday will have another episode for you, in which we’re taking out the door locks, remove the doors themselves and tidy up the few remaining interior items. Visit the "Project C.A.R.™" page for easy viewing.

And that’s it for this update. Hopefully you'll enjoy the new episodes and as always please leave your feedback, comments and suggestions! Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thank you! See you next time!

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A divorce is on the horizon

30 Jun. 2020 | Stoughton, UK | By Niek Nijsen

In the previous update we started work in the engine bay. The original Zenith twin carburettors were removed along with the matching inlet manifolds. In this update, we’ll continue with the engine bay work and separate the engine from the body.

The first new part that arrived was the exhaust manifold by Schmiedmann in Denmark. I unpacked the beautifully crafted and shiny headers from their box and went straight to test fitting them. It took a few attempts, but eventually I got them to fit nicely. I had to remove the hoses between the gearbox and radiator but after that it was pretty much straight forward.

The following day another package arrived, which contained the new triple Weber carburettors. Since I already removed the old carbs, I was hoping this would be a straight fit as well. Unfortunately, this wasn’t the case. In order to get the front one on, the thermostat housing had to come off. Turns out this will need some modification in order to fit alongside the new inlet. Aside from that, I now also have a water line that’s no longer of any use, as the new carbs aren’t water cooled like the old ones. Something I’ll have to sort out in the future. At least the rear carb went on without any problems, but when fitting the middle one it turned out that there’s only 2 mm space between the air inlet and the brake booster. Once again, I had to come up with a way to get it all to fit as I’ll be needing more space for the air inlets to function. Eventually I decided that the best way would be to remove the oil filter that’s attached to the engine, which creates enough space to bring the booster forward, leaving enough space for the inlets. I’ll get into more detail regarding this when I get to work on the engine to relocate the filter.

Then came the dreaded job of removing the old sound insulation, a horrible if you ask me. The old material is very sticky and brittle, so in order to remove it I’ve been using a heat gun to soften the material and glue while shoving a plaster knife underneath it, trying to separate it from the bodywork. A slow and time-consuming process… At the moment I’ve removed both the front footwells, the transmission tunnel and bulkhead. However, the rear seats still need doing, as well as the doors.

Away from the car I’ve been working on some more episodes for you to enjoy. During this month I’ve uploaded part 1 and 2 of the dashboard removal. In these episodes you get to join me while I remove the entire dash without taking out the windscreen first (something that’s normally not done). It takes quite a bit of work and its somewhat of a puzzle, but eventually I got it all out. Worth a watch if you’re planning on restoring/removing your dash.

Visit Project C.A.R.™

Back to the lower half of the car, this time the front and rear brakes. The left rear has been playing up a lot in that it’s pretty much locked in place. I suspected the handbrake to be the cause of the issue but couldn’t get to it as it requires me to take of the brake disk. This turned out to be more of an issue than anticipated, since it wouldn’t come off the normal way by gently pulling it. I ended up using a bearing removal tool (not sure what the official name is) and slowly pulled the disk off. This worked and I finally had a good view of the handbrake parts, all of which will be replaced. The bits were removed, and work shifted to the other side, which luckily came off without any problems.

I shifted my attention to the front where I had the additional work of removing the brake callipers as well, which had been installed during the previous restoration work. With a bit of help from the workshop manual I figured out how the front wheel hubs worked and slowly got the whole assembly dismantled. Everything was labelled and boxed before putting it away.

Now that most of the work underneath the car was done, it was time to separate the engine from the body. Now, normally you’d do this with an engine crane and lift it up through the top of the car. This would require me to remove the bonnet, find a crane and push the car back far enough to get access to the front. Something that wasn’t going to happen since I just removed the wheels…

I figured that I would be possible to reverse the installation method they use in the factory; in that I would be able to remove the engine by removing the entire subframe assembly. This would then stay behind as I raise the bodywork using the lift. My homemade cart was placed underneath the subframe in order to move it around once extracted before I undid the top of the suspension. This was required as it would stay behind with the subframe, allowing easy removal afterwards. Be aware that if you do this yourself, that the suspension will fall over as soon as the body is raised far enough. Using a strap to keep them upright will stop this from happening. I’ll explain this better in the relevant episode which will be available in the near future. Anyway, the car was lowered far enough for the subframe to rest on the cart and I began the separation process by undoing the rear gearbox mount. To stop if from falling down, I placed a strop around the backend of the transmission which was held in place with a piece of wood inside the car. The bolts that attach the subframe to the body were undone and the moment of separation arrived. I slowly raised the lift, only to see the gearbox going up along with it as well! You guessed it, I forgot to remove the strap that held the gearbox in place! The car was quickly lowered again and once the strap was removed a new attempt was made. This time it all went well, and the engine and body finally came apart from each other. A huge milestone in the restoration process.

I found a neighbour in the village that has an engine crane and he was willing to let me borrow it. With a crane I could now remove the automatic gearbox from the engine as I’ll be replacing this with a manual 5-speed. I’ll admit, I was pretty naïve thinking it would be a quick job by simply removing a few bolts… Yeah no, not really. It turns out that the automatic gearbox requires a bit more work. I had to remove an additional 4 bolts on the “inside” of the gearbox. I know, that sounds weird and impossible. However, the bolts can be accessed in a particular position where there’s a small “cutout” in the engine block. Anyway, in order to position these bolts in the opening, I had to rotate the crankshaft. Turns out I need a 36mm socket to do that… Despite placing a quick order for the missing tools, delivery took a bit longer, so work was halted for now. Once the tools arrive, I’ll continue work, but I’m afraid that’s it for this update.

As always, thank you for following and your feedback, love to hear your thoughts on the progress and the project in general! Don’t forget to watch the latest episodes and subscribe to the channels. See you next time.

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And we're off!

31 May 2020 | Stoughton, UK | By Niek Nijsen

It’s been a very busy month! Not only did Project C.A.R.™ get a new home on the website, Brünhilda is looking very different than a month ago. Let’s have a look at what I’ve been up to.

Last time we ended with the boot and removal of the tank. In the meantime I’ve received a new “boot box”, which is basically a large tray/bathtub made of fiberglass that replaces the spare wheel and fuel tank space. This was used in race cars to allow for custom fuel tanks, oil reservoirs and more. More details on this will come when I get to cutting out the floor to make this fit. Since I won’t be using the fuel tank anymore, if anyone who’s interested in a ’74 second hand tank, please get in touch with me.

Included in the same order was a new dashboard, the GP2 race car version (also fiberglass). This will replace the original dashboard, as I’m going with a more rally / race car look to the car, especially since we’re adding bucket seats and a roll cage, might as well stick to the theme and go the whole way.

Now let’s have a look at the work that’s been done since the previous update. The dash had already been removed, as were the seats and carpet. So I was basically left with an empty space still surrounded by door liners, headliners, windows and various small items. Time to get them out. First up were the door liners, which came off pretty easy once all the door handles, knobs and switches were removed. All of this will obviously be covered in detail in future episodes on Project C.A.R.™.

I shifted my attention to what was above my head and began the process of removing the headliner. Now, I’m still not sure whether the mice eat the foam here as well (wouldn’t be surprised) or if it’s simply decayed this badly after 45 years. It was basically snowing foam every time I removed another piece of liner. Heck, I ended up filling 2 bags in the vacuum cleaner to give you an idea of the mess…

With the interior stripped bare, I got access to the window mechanisms. I instantly ran into problems, as my windows are of a later version/design than explained in the manual (which turned out to be of little use once again). The rear windows are relatively straight forward, although I had to lower them in order to get them out. Another problem, as I’d already disconnected the wiring. Luckily, I have a handy tool, called the Power Probe, which allows me to power individual parts of the car, so I could lower the electric windows in the back.
The front door turned out to be an even bigger problem. The manual is very good in explaining how to remove the lock and door handle, but you can only get to them once the window is out. A bit of research was required and other than that I more or less guessed from a logic approach as what might be the best way to get them out. After a lot of frustration, I eventually got them out and quickly followed with removing locks and handles.

Since the doors have been in my way quite a bit, and they’ll have to be removed from the body for the chem bath process later on, I decided to take them off. The left door was straight forward, undo a couple (read 6) of bolts and the door comes off. The right side however, bloody nightmare. One of the bolts was completely rounded so there was no way that would come out using sockets or any other wrench-type tool. Add to the problem that it’s sunk into the door with very limited access. I ended up buying a bolt extractor set which solved the problem. Basically what this tool does is it “grips” onto the head of the bolt with a set of “teeth” and then provides the necessary force/grip to loosen the bolt. Anyway, now with this little “pain in the behind” removed, his 5 little friends were quite happy to follow and this door was also separated from the car.

At this point I had enough of the interior, especially since the next job would be that of removing the sound insulation that is glued to the floor panels. But we’ll get to that in a second, first we’re going to move forward a bit, literally.

The engine bay was screaming for attention and who am I not to give it? The first step was to create some space to work, so I removed the coolant reservoir, various hoses and wiring. This was followed by the removal of the brake fluid reservoir, additional oil filter and washer fluid tank. At this point my dad made a very valid point, in that if we are to replace the current carburetors with triple Webers, we better get the fitted before we remove the engine. Can you imagine the car being in the final stages of assembly and it turns out the engine no longer fits?! Yeah, exactly. So, instead I removed the original carburetors (twin Zenith’s) and the hoses & wiring that go with them. While working on the wiring, I decided to remove the whole lot. Pretty straight forward really as you simply follow the loom from back to front as you pull it back to the center area underneath the steering wheel. Unfortunately, I had to make one cut in the loom due to the way we re-routed/taped during the previous restoration work as there was no way it would come out past the bulkhead. The front section which wires the headlights, indicators, horns and a few other things is still there as I can’t access the front of the car at the moment, this will follow later.

The next step will be to remove the exhaust manifold, since they’ll be replaced by a sport version as well. Again, the idea here is to make sure it fits and to see if any additional structural work is required before removing the engine.

You may have noticed I’ve added two new episodes to the Project C.A.R.™ series on the website and YouTube which cover the removal of the seats and carpet split over 2 episodes. Now that I finally made enough of a head start and got sufficient footage, I’ll be uploading a new episode every 2 weeks, with the next one coming on Sunday (in which we’ll start work on the dashboard).

I’m sure you’re pleased to know you’ve (finally) reached the end of this update. If you haven’t already , go checkout the latest episodes and subscribe to the channel. I look forward to read you comments and feedback you may have. See you at the next update!

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Get ready, get set, go!

30 Apr. 2020 | Stoughton, UK | By Niek Nijsen

And we’re off! After many months of “supporting” work in and around the garage, I’ve finally started work on the actual car. What a milestone that is!

You may have already seen the very first episode of Project C.A.R.™ in which I introduce the project when I announced it in the previous blog update. If you haven’t already, you can find it on the video page of Brünhilda and YouTube or simply scroll down to the previous blog entry.

The time had come to begin work on the car. However, it required a good clean out before I could do that. When the car was moved, I had to put all the (spare) parts and tools inside so that needed to come out again. I noticed there was a lot of evidence of mice living in there over the winter. As clearing out progressed, it became clear that the blankets and left rear seat had been eaten badly. A large hole on the backrest appeared and it took two bags in the hoover/vacuum cleaner to get all the debris out. At this point I still hadn’t located the actual nest and could only image what the damage underneath the seat could be. The cleaning process then moved to the boot which turned out to be in pretty decent condition. Finally, now that this dirty job was done, I could begin taking the car apart.

I decided that the interior would be the best place to start. The front seats were removed (covered in full detail in the next episode of Project C.A.R.™) and the rear seats followed soon after. The latter isn’t covered in the BMW manual, so it’s definitely worth watching if you’re working on your interior as well (or simply interested in watching the series). It turned out that the mouse, which was found dead in its nest underneath the rear seats, had eaten most of the centre armrest and support above it. Another round with the vacuum cleaner followed to get rid of the nest.

With that gone and the seats removed, I now had the space to work on the rest. The carpet followed next and came out almost in one piece. From what I can gather it’s not an original as this was a single piece whereas the originals consist of multiple parts. Anyway, I had to take the centre console out as well as parts of the handbrake and seatbelts before I could remove it completely. All of which will be covered in the restoration series in the near future.

As part of the centre console had already been removed I continued the dismantling of the interior with the dash. Now the bottom halve is relatively easy to remove, especially because I only put it together last year, so it was still fresh in my memory. But as soon as I got to the top half, it became a real nightmare. Again, the manual is of no use as it covers the Bavaria version, not the E9’s more modern dash. Online research got me a bit further, but no definitive answer there either. Most suggested the front windshield is removed to get the dash out, but that wasn’t an option for me just yet as I can’t get any help at the moment due to the COVID-19 restrictions. I had to find a way to remove it from the inside. A slow process and a lot of hidden screws and clips later I managed to get the whole dash out in one piece. The wood is actually in good condition still and all will be cleaned and stored as it’s being replaced with a Group 2 racing dash. The bit that turned out to be the biggest struggle of it all was the original heater, which was glued in place with (too much) sealant in order to make sure it wouldn’t leak. At least 2 hours later before I got that removed and the entire dash was now out.

Lastly, I stripped the boot (trunk) of the spare wheel, fuel tank (another dilemma) and covering panels. The rear lights and wiring were also removed along with all the model badges and boot locking mechanism. All of which was pretty straight forward, aside from the fuel tank. This was supposed to drop out once the bolts had been removed, but the seal that’s placed to stop it from leaking had completely solidified with the car. Even a positive “tap” with a mallet hammer didn’t do the job. I left it overnight, thinking I’d try something else the next morning. Turns out that gravity can be your best friend and overnight the weight of the tank had taken its toll on the seal and dropped down out of the car. The boot was now considered “empty” and ready for blasting. Only thing left to do is to remove the boot lid itself.

And that brings us to a quick update on Project C.A.R.™ and the series’ episodes. As mentioned, if just uploaded the second episode in which we prepare the car and garage. Still now work on the car itself in this one, but that will soon change when I get to upload the next episode in the series. In that particular one we’ll cover the removal of the seats. I’m working on creating a separate page for the restoration on the website, so you can expect a brand-new home for it by the end of this month.

With all that being said, we’ve arrived at the end of this blog update. Don’t forget to watch the latest episode and subscribe if you haven’t already. Thank you for joining me and I look forward seeing you at the next one!

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The launch of Project C.A.R.™

30 Mar. 2020 | Stougthon, UK | By Niek Nijsen

The biggest news you may have already seen on the various social media channels and the website, is that I’ve launched the teaser video of “Project C.A.R.”, which stands for “Classic Automobile Restoration” and will encompass all work related to the restoration of Brünhilda in many free-to-watch episodes over the coming months. If you haven’t seen it already, the teaser can be seen here:

Alongside the teaser was the launch of the introduction video, which explains the concept of Project C.A.R. in more detail, including the future planned teaching series. The latter currently still in its concept phase, it will provide more detail on how to restore your car from your home garage, many tools and documents to members that will help you with your restoration project, including planning tools, expense & inventory trackers, maintenance overviews and much more. This particular video is located at the top of the “Brünhilda Video Page” and the “Project C.A.R.” playlist on YouTube, but for easy viewing it's also included in this particular blog update:

While I spend a lot of time at the computer editing these videos, and even more recording them (a total of 49 attempts before I was happy), I’ve been busy preparing the garage for the work to start. With a small area to work in, smart organisation of the available space is a high priority. I’ve finally installed the missing shelves between the toolbox and shelving unit, and I’ve installed a compressed air system that provides me with a connection point on both sides of the garage. More details can be seen during the quick tour in Episode 01 or in the future special.

Last but definitely not least, I’ve ordered a new camera (GoPro Hero8), which allows me to record in 4K definition as well as live stream in HD quality. Now I’m still working with my usual HD cameras and the first mini episode in which I prepare the car for restoration is currently being rendered. This episode holds a big surprise for us all, where it turns out the car has been housing quite a few little friends over the winter (whom clearly paid the rent in an unusual fashion)…

As you can see, plenty has happened over the last few weeks and there’s a lot more to follow in the coming months. If you haven’t already, make sure to subscribe to the social media channels and newsletter.

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Home at last

01 Jan. 2020 | Stoughton, UK | By Niek Nijsen

Brünhilda is home. It’s been a long time coming, but I’ve finally been able to move her to the newly prepared garage. Over the last two years a lot has happened in the background, which all began with the original move to the UK a few years ago. On the 13th January 2018, mum & dad brought her across on a trailer from her long-term storage back in The Netherlands. Dad and I had been working on restoring her for quite some years earlier (back in 2007), but all came to a halt when I moved to the USA in 2011. She’s been gathering dust ever since. As I didn’t have a garage to store and work on her yet, a family member offered their garage for temporary use.

I slowly began working away at the list of things to do, primarily sorting out the wiring and rebuilding the interior. Progress was slow and difficult, as I had limited knowledge about the car and as a result spent most of my time staring at her trying to figure out what to do. It wasn’t until Christmas 2018 when I reached a big break through. Together with dad we got the engine running again, after a 12-year silence. To our surprise only a few attempts with easy-start fluid were needed in order to get her roaring. I must say she sounds loud, although it might have something to do with the fact that the exhaust hadn’t been connected yet. Either way, it was like music to our ears, and we were very happy to say the least.

The months that followed I finished the interior and elected to remove the LPG tank that was fitted in the booth. The main reason for this is the fact that there’s hardly any LPG available in the UK, and we’d be carrying a lot of dead weight around during rallies. The decision was made to remove the installation all together. As a result, a lot of holes which allowed hoses and bolts to go through the chassis were now open and uncovered, prime areas for rust to fester. All restoration work came to a grinding halt, again.

Many months passed, as dad and I decided on what to do. Eventually we elected to start over, back to square one with a full bare metal restoration. It would be the best base for what we had in mind, participating in classic car rallies. A lot of modifications will be required in order to prepare the car as best as we can, including the fitting of a roll cage, so the new approach will lend itself perfectly for this. The next step, however, would mean work needed to be done to the garage at my new home, which we owned since August 2019. We began by modifying the roof support structure in order to fit a two-post car lift and allow it to go to full height. Next we build a desk and various storage facilities that would hold all the parts during the restoration process. Although not completely finished, Brünhilda was moved from her current storage to the new garage on the 15th November 2019. With a bit of luck, I’ll be able to finish the garage over the next few weeks and the restoration process can finally begin.

To kick off the project and as a bit of a motivation boost, dad and I went up to GSM performance in Nottingham to try new seats on 24 November 2019. We tried many different types and shapes and eventually our choice fell on the Rev II seats with matching 4-point harness, both by Sparco. Can’t wait to get these fitted!

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